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Fortress Wall
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American Wall 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: B. Molzon, D. Shori, 1977
Season: Gets sun all day
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: American Wall

Description 

Start up a wide crack below a left-facing corner, just southeast of the Gulf of Mexico. This start is probably harder than the traditional grade fo 5.3 it was given. Perhaps it is 5.5 or 5.6. Once through the awkward start, pull up into Central America and grab your way into central Mexico, with a good hold somewhere in the Yucatan. Now that your feet are also on solid ground and no longer in the East Pacific, place some slings on chicken heads and puzzle pieces and head for the border. Climb up on easy holds up and left to a small ledge, then up lower angle rock to a large ledge. Webbing on trees was once the mode to belay from here, but since, bolts have been placed for a belay and rap.

To make it challenging, skip the crack and pull directly onto the map into Mexico from SE of Texas. This is height dependent.

Location 

This climb is just right of center in the main amphitheatre of Fortress Wall. It is identified by two features: its proximity and shared start with American Crack (an obvious left-facing corner), and its pattern of darker flakes, resembling a map of North America, just out of reach of the ground, which are the features to be climbed.

Protection 

A few slings on chicken heads and puzzle pieces. It would be best not to fall...


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By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Nov 24, 2006

The start for this is the same as the start for American Crack so the grade should be the same. THough the rest of the route is most definitely 5.3
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 25, 2006

Actually the start is height dependent, and I always grabbed on of the little "islands" and did a jump up onto it. But agreed that 5.3 is a sandbag I've changed the grade on the description and added a qualifier.
By Sam Golden
From: melbourne, FL
May 28, 2012

other than the slings mentioned, after the traverse micros will fit in places if examined, also some smaller cams/tricams.
By Kevin Wagner
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Mar 10, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun, V3 (extremely height dependent) variation of the start from the chalked up two finger pocket up to the plates. Cannot be done on gear but is a fun option if top-roping or confident. The rest protects well with nuts.
By Kevin Lubbers
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

Start is the same as American Crack, foot or hand traverse left once you hit the iron oxide plates. Sling chickenheads, slot tricams, and wedge a few large offset nuts in there if you got em'. Bring a .75 camalot for the topout. If you have a follower, tell them not to fall on the traverse to avoid a nasty swing. Easy, less than vertical face climbing, but deserving of its "R" rating.