American Psycho  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Dave Jacobson Submitted By:  DisturbingThePeace on Oct 3, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

An easy start passing the first two bolts leads to a hard series of moves on small pockets and a difficult third clip. From here a burly move right leads to good holds and the fourth clip. Follow easy ground past one more bolt to the anchors,

Really more of a boulder's route than the typical ET route. The crux moves are hard V5?, but if you like small pockets you will love this route.

Might be a little soft for the grade.

Location 

The left route on the front face. Just right of Hoggle and left of a new unknown route.

Protection 

5 Bolts to an anchor with leaver biners. There is no chain so expect your rope to get twisted. Could use an upgrade.