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Out of Control area
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American Ninja T 
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American Ninja 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Robert Finlay 1986
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: Bill Bones on Nov 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Shayne Durfee Right in the middle of the business

Description 

Above the middle terrace is an obvious clean cut red corner with a thin crack. Scramble up 50 feet to belay at the base of the corner. Climb the corner. Rap anchor at the top. Thin moves and thin protection but great climbing

Protection 

up to #2 at the top RPs and other smaller stoppers


Photos of American Ninja Slideshow Add Photo
Shayne Durfee in the stem crux
Shayne Durfee in the stem crux
Keith Phelps on the stem attack
Keith Phelps on the stem attack

Comments on American Ninja Add Comment
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By Bill Bones
Nov 5, 2007

I though this route was a solid 11a, though the book gives it a 10c. Thin moves with amazing stem/friction moves in the crux. bring some small cams and stoppers. We placed a #2 in a pocket down low and also another #2 at the top after the crux. Great route. I gave this route 4 stars because it was a challenge in every aspect, Gear, Climbing, and setting.
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Jan 22, 2008

I thought the climbing was fun, but this route is really all about 1 move. A star or two, but nowhere near as good as Out of Control.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I have alittle trouble giving this 5.11a....it's realy just 1 maybe 2 moves....but they are 5.11 moves. So I'll call it 5.11, but I wouldn't argue against someone who said 5.10+.

josh
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

a #3 in a pocket down low is pretty nice to have- i didnt like any of the options for the #2...but if you're up there, you should have a #3 anyway since you are probably doing/have done Out of Control....