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Though easily accessible and popular as a hike in the summer and a ski tour in winter (with access through Snowbird certain days in the spring), the north aspect in some years has sprouted a fine ice climb that, when combined with hard snow/snice conditions in the couloir above, makes for a fun, mini-alpine outing. Unfortunately, access to this route is forbidden when Snowbird is operating as a ski area. The entire north aspect is considered a closed area and only opened to skiing in certain locations a few days a season, if at all. It is also in plain view of the Snowbird Patrol shack on Hidden Peak, so poachers take note and plan well.
Those interested in climbing these fine falls will approach through Gad Valley, six or so miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. The best parking is right at the bridge to the parking lot in Entry 2, just before the Tram Base.
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The Rookie Party WI4 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : American Fork Twins
From a belay on the right side, climb up a short low-angle section to the crux, a leftward-ascending traverse. After that, cruise WI3 for the next hundred something feet. If the Center Chute, the couloir up and slightly left of the ice is looking firm, find a line through shattered rock and traverse in. We climbed another 200' up and slightly right from the steep ice until we could make an easy traverse back left into the couloir....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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