American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)
There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.
The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.
Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.
From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.
From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.
You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.
A wonderful stemming problem in an overhanging corner.Start up through the dusty beginning using small feet and lieback handholds where the thin corner crack opens up enough to accept fingertips. Delicate stemming with a big move or two is required to the fourth bolt (getting to the fourth bolt is a relief—it feels like a long way from the third). At this point the angle eases a bit and the holds get bigger. Continue up and stand atop a ledge on the left, then finish with the last eight or ten f...[more]Browse More Classics in UT