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American Fork Canyon
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American Fork Ice 
Australian Boulder 
Avalanche Buttress 
B-52 Wall, The 
Beer Can Alley 
Billboard Trail, The 
Bingo Baby 
Black Magic 
Blue Walls, The 
Bone Cave, The 
Cannabis Wall 
Commons, The 
Division Wall 
Echo Boulder 
El Diablo Wall 
Escape Buttress 
Forgotten Trails 
Grey Cliffs Picnic Area 
Hard Rock 
Hell Cave 
Hell Wall 
Hideaway, The 
House Boulder 
Isolation Wall 
Juniper Wall 
Little Mill Area 
Little Mill Boulders 
Lower Division 
Membrane, The 
Narcolepsy 
Necromancer 
Sign Wall, The 
Tank Canyon 
Temple, The 
unknown 
Unknown Pleasures 
Watchtower, The 
White Wave Wall 

American Fork Canyon 


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Lat, Long: 40.4323, -111.751 Map
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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Summer climbing in AF.

Black Magic are...


Description 

American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)

There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.

The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.

Please read the Forest Service Policy on American Fork Canyon


Local Beta 

Mountainworks is the local climbing shop.

Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.


Getting There 

From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.

From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.

You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for American Fork Canyon:
Rockapella   5.7     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hard Rock
Stoic Calculus   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hard Rock
Many Options   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Hard Rock
Winds of Fire   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Hard Rock
Caress of Steel   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Membrane
Platinum Blonde   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Hard Rock
Deep End   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   Division Wall
Juggernaut   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Hard Rock
Suicide Blonde   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hard Rock
Eight to Eleven   5.11b     Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet   Hard Rock
License To Thrill   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Membrane
Division   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Division Wall
Bringer of Light   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Bingo Baby
Liquid Oxygen   5.12a     Sport, 40 feet   Division Wall
Teeanova   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hard Rock
Pig Pen   5.12a/b     Sport, 40 feet   Little Mill Area
Isotoner Moaner   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch   Division Wall
Beeline   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Billboard Trail : The Billboard
Malvado   5.13a     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40 feet   El Diablo Wall
Linus   5.13c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hell Cave
Browse More Classics in American Fork Canyon

Featured Route For American Fork Canyon
Membrane Wall <br />5. <a href='/v/caress-of-steel/105739949'>Caress of Steel</a> 5.10a  <br />6. <a href='/v/steel-monkey/106017395'>Steel Monkey</a> 5.10d  <br />7. <a href='/v/route-66/105739952'>Route 66</a> 5.12a

Caress of Steel 5.10a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Membrane
About 20 feet left of License To Thrill are a pair of near classic 5.10 warm-ups, Caress is the left of the two, but both are worth doing. Not overly bolted, the pump factor can make both of these routes seem a number grade harder. Just stay on your feet and make the big reaches. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of American Fork Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs parking area. <br />1 <a href='/v/hard-rock/105739715'>Hard Rock</a> <br />2 <a href='/v/white-wave-wall/105739683'>White Wave</a> <br />3 <a href='/v/escape-buttress/105739671'>Escape Buttress</a> <br />4 <a href='/v/necromancer/105885713'>Necromancer</a> <br />5 <a href='/v/narcolepsy/105885742'>Narcolepsy</a>

BETA PHOTO: Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs pa...

some consider this to be the best line in the wasatch

some consider this to be the best line in the wasa...

A summer evening in <a href='/v/american-fork-canyon/105739274'>American Fork Canyon</a>.

A summer evening in American Fork Canyon.

Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway

Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway

Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway

Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway

me on my first lime stone route that i know of... fun

me on my first lime stone route that i know of... ...


Comments on American Fork Canyon Add Comment
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By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Mar 21, 2010

is there any decent multi-pitch up the canyon that is worth getting one?

By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Apr 6, 2010

There are several multi-pitch routes listed here on MP:

Eight to Eleven - .11b 2 pitch
Old School - .10b 2 pitch

I hear there's a 2nd pitch to Stoic Calculus that is around .10a or .10b.

Suspect is an .11d 4 pitch route on B-52 Wall across the stream from Hell parking lot. There's also another route there that's listed as a project in the old Ruckman guide.

By Nate_801
From: Cedar Hills
Aug 1, 2010

I am getting ready to move to American Fork and was wondering if you guys knew any good route books for the Canyon??

By Darson K.
From: Provo
Feb 4, 2012

NateHeld, I moved here during the summer and I found about four good books on AF canyon. There are so many good routes up there and near by....INCREDIBLE climbing.

By MaRey
From: Salty lake, Utah
Mar 13, 2013

Anybody been to the hard rock or escape buttress areas recently, and if so how is it looking?

By SMR
Apr 22, 2013

Climbed there 2 weeks ago- it was good.