Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
(d) Roof Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Dream S 
Balrog S 
Catch 22 S 
Critical Mass S 
Deja Vu S 
Delirious S 
Epiphany S 
False Alarm S 
Gollum S 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Leviathan S 
Nostalgia S 
Salutations S 
Swan Song S 
Swank Nostalgia S 
Trepanation S 
Triple Trouble S 
Ultimate, The S 
Vendetta S 

American Dream 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 1,502
Submitted By: Zach Pickard on Oct 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Knocked a death block off at the P1 crux. Luckily,...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the few Multi pitch routes at the quarry. Pitch 1 goes at .11b. Pitch 2 is some really awesome 5.10a low angle slab lybacking. Pitch 3 is an 7 bolt traverse under the roof to anchor number 3.Pitch 4 is .11c to shuts. Stellar climbing on small holds and beautiful exposure.

Location 

Just right of Catch 22. Roof area

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of American Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: American Dream
BETA PHOTO: American Dream

Comments on American Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By chadhalstead
Jul 19, 2014

A QUALITY route with such variety of climbing styles. Face climbing , crack climbing ( fingers to fists ), traverse, liebacking..... Dont know what took me so long to notice this climb.

The pitches are very short, but if you're looking to get a variety of climbing, and smooth out your multipitch game, this route is very enjoyable.

Felt the route went pretty easy , but the 11c crux is the last few moves on small crimps/pockets to reach the anchors. Save a little gas for the end.
By Radly baird
Jul 29, 2016

Anyone know the rappel beta for this route?
By ablock0
Sep 1, 2016

Since the route has short pitches and P3 traverses out of the pit under the roof, Rap from P3 anchors should bring you to the ground with a 60m if I remember correctly.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!