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American Dream 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 1,414
Submitted By: Zach Pickard on Oct 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: American Dream

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the few Multi pitch routes at the quarry. Pitch 1 goes at .11b. Pitch 2 is some really awesome 5.10a low angle slab lybacking. Pitch 3 is an 7 bolt traverse under the roof to anchor number 3.Pitch 4 is .11c to shuts. Stellar climbing on small holds and beautiful exposure.

Location 

Just right of Catch 22. Roof area

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of American Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Knocked a death block off at the P1 crux. Luckily,...
BETA PHOTO: Knocked a death block off at the P1 crux. Luckily,...

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By chadhalstead
Jul 19, 2014

A QUALITY route with such variety of climbing styles. Face climbing , crack climbing ( fingers to fists ), traverse, liebacking..... Dont know what took me so long to notice this climb.

The pitches are very short, but if you're looking to get a variety of climbing, and smooth out your multipitch game, this route is very enjoyable.

Felt the route went pretty easy , but the 11c crux is the last few moves on small crimps/pockets to reach the anchors. Save a little gas for the end.

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