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American Dream 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: Zach Pickard on Oct 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: American Dream
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the few Multi pitch routes at the quarry. Pitch 1 goes at .11b. Pitch 2 is some really awesome 5.10a low angle slab lybacking. Pitch 3 is an 7 bolt traverse under the roof to anchor number 3.Pitch 4 is .11c to shuts. Stellar climbing on small holds and beautiful exposure.


Location 

Just right of Catch 22. Roof area


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of American Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Knocked a death block off at the P1 crux. Luckily, I was following, not leading, so my belayer was safely above.
BETA PHOTO: Knocked a death block off at the P1 crux. Luckily,...
Comments on American Dream Add Comment
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By chadhalstead
Jul 19, 2014

A QUALITY route with such variety of climbing styles. Face climbing , crack climbing ( fingers to fists ), traverse, liebacking..... Dont know what took me so long to notice this climb.

The pitches are very short, but if you're looking to get a variety of climbing, and smooth out your multipitch game, this route is very enjoyable.

Felt the route went pretty easy , but the 11c crux is the last few moves on small crimps/pockets to reach the anchors. Save a little gas for the end.