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 ADVANCED
Bird-Foot Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Dream Roof T 
Hard Nose TR 
Left Turkey Foot T,TR 
Little Bird TR 
Mother and Apple Pie TR 
Pay Off T,TR 
Procto Pete and the Endos TR 
Right Turkey Foot T,TR 
Sick Vulture TR 
Squeeze Play T,TR 

American Dream Roof 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982
Page Views: 1,751
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2007

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Darin Limvere on American Dream Roof. Nov 12, 2011...

Description 

There was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead.

American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the roof (when I first led it, I placed 5 cams) and climb, using dynamic moves, to the top.

Though it is possible to stop and place gear above the roof, I thought it added too much difficulty to be worth it, but make your own call. ADR is basically a boulder problem protected by a bunch of gear that you put in from a great stance; therefore, it may be the easiest 5.10 lead at DL.


Protection 

Finger sized cams.



Photos of American Dream Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan pulling the roof.
Ryan pulling the roof.
Josh placing good gear before pulling the roof crux.
Josh placing good gear before pulling the roof cru...
"Uber Direct" goes straight up the center of both roofs.
BETA PHOTO: "Uber Direct" goes straight up the center of both ...
Vinny, sending directly.
Vinny, sending directly.
Old school shot from the Prunes Collection. Not sure who the climber is.
Old school shot from the Prunes Collection. Not su...
How could you not want to climb this?
How could you not want to climb this?
Ryan belays as Stewart follows ADR. Photo: Giulia Bartolotta
Ryan belays as Stewart follows ADR. Photo: Giulia ...
Old school shot of direct. Photo from the Prunes Collection
Old school shot of direct. Photo from the Prunes C...
Comments on American Dream Roof Add Comment
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 5, 2007

F.A. : Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982. Rich led this and we then all promptly led it on his gear. Fun route even if it is abit short.Rich later went back and did a direct start?
The crags and bouldering in this area make for some pretty fun exploring and cragging. The trail/road on top was also fun mtn. biking. peace and f-nes

By Tradoholic
Jul 24, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Vinny and I sent the direct today, started on the left side of the lower roof and moved up and then right to under the upper roof. One cam down low in a horizontal and then just a move or two of business to the stance under the ledge. Then, plugged four cams and sent. PG-13 for the direct for a move or two with potential decking at the bottom, the upper roof is very well protected..

We also tried a "Uber Direct" line that went straight up both roofs. Very hard and bouldery, didn't get it clean, maybe later, hard 12ish.

By far the best route at Birdfoot.

By cbilda, a.k.a. MudBat
Jul 26, 2009

undercling with right hand is key. either in the crack (with a decent thumb catch) or out right. establish this and hike your feet up. reach up over the roof with the left --higher than you think. once established, throw up with the right to a good notch. match and you're cutting your feet to a great finish. lovely route :)

By Leo Hski
Nov 5, 2009

This route is the cover (front and back) of the Extremist's Guide.

Beta: Plug in bomber gear. Grab big holds. Pull down.

By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 22, 2011

Onsighted the route on Saturday. So fun and exciting! Some hero moves at the top.

The direct is only a pinch harder, but I would give it an R rating. This is the first time I had to ask my belayer to be ready to jump off a boulder. Head-pointed that one...

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fantastic climb! Great gear, and pulling the roof is a unique experience for the lake.

By G. Neely
From: Madison, WI
Apr 30, 2013

Cool route, cool crag. I mistakenly attempted (on TR) the "Uber Direct" at first thinking that was the route. Bouldery indeed, and I got shut down. Out of curiosity, on a historic level, who FA'ed the "Uber Direct"? Was that Bechler too?

By Tradoholic
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I don't believe the uber direct has been sent.