American Dream Roof 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2007 |
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How could you not want to climb this?
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Description There was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead.
American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the roof (when I first led it, I placed 5 cams) and climb, using dynamic moves, to the top.
Though it is possible to stop and place gear above the roof, I thought it added too much difficulty to be worth it, but make your own call. ADR is basically a boulder problem protected by a bunch of gear that you put in from a great stance; therefore, it may be the easiest 5.10 lead at DL.
Protection Finger sized cams.
Vinny, sending directly.
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BETA PHOTO: "Uber Direct" goes straight up the center of both ...
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Darin Limvere on American Dream Roof. Nov 12, 2011...
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Old school shot of direct. Photo from the Prunes C...
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Old school shot from the Prunes Collection. Not su...
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Ryan pulling the roof.
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Ryan belays as Stewart follows ADR. Photo: Giulia ...
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Josh placing good gear before pulling the roof cru...
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| Comments on American Dream Roof |
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 5, 2007
| F.A. : Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982. Rich led this and we then all promptly led it on his gear. Fun route even if it is abit short.Rich later went back and did a direct start?
The crags and bouldering in this area make for some pretty fun exploring and cragging. The trail/road on top was also fun mtn. biking. peace and f-nes |
By Trad Nanny
Jul 24, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| Vinny and I sent the direct today, started on the left side of the lower roof and moved up and then right to under the upper roof. One cam down low in a horizontal and then just a move or two of business to the stance under the ledge. Then, plugged four cams and sent. PG-13 for the direct for a move or two with potential decking at the bottom, the upper roof is very well protected..
We also tried a "Uber Direct" line that went straight up both roofs. Very hard and bouldery, didn't get it clean, maybe later, hard 12ish.
By far the best route at Birdfoot. |
By cbilda, a.k.a. MudBat
Jul 26, 2009
| undercling with right hand is key. either in the crack (with a decent thumb catch) or out right. establish this and hike your feet up. reach up over the roof with the left --higher than you think. once established, throw up with the right to a good notch. match and you're cutting your feet to a great finish. lovely route :) |
By Leo Hski
Nov 5, 2009
| This route is the cover (front and back) of the Extremist's Guide.
Beta: Plug in bomber gear. Grab big holds. Pull down. |
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 22, 2011
| Onsighted the route on Saturday. So fun and exciting! Some hero moves at the top.
The direct is only a pinch harder, but I would give it an R rating. This is the first time I had to ask my belayer to be ready to jump off a boulder. Head-pointed that one... |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| Fantastic climb! Great gear, and pulling the roof is a unique experience for the lake. |
By G. Neely
Apr 30, 2013
| Cool route, cool crag. I mistakenly attempted (on TR) the "Uber Direct" at first thinking that was the route. Bouldery indeed, and I got shut down. Out of curiosity, on a historic level, who FA'ed the "Uber Direct"? Was that Bechler too? |
By Trad Nanny
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.10d
| I don't believe the uber direct has been sent. |
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