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Onsighting American casear
American Caesar is a classic taste of Waterfall stemming with an all or nothing final run to the anchors over small wires....
Locate a short (25'), fat pillar with several different crack lines up it 30' right of Black and Tan staging area. The right/center line is the nicest, though expect some blocks. On top of this pillar are two bolts for optional belay, which is nice for the climber, maybe worse for the belayer.
American Caesar takes the steep, clean dihedral left of Tainted Love. From the top of the fat pillar, pass large leaning block via hands in slabby left facing dihedral and enter the steep jams? and hard stemming. The opening bit is just a taste of what is to come. The crack varies in size from tips to hands and always seems to be changing. Expect powerful stemming throughout, while placing an assortment of thin gear complimented by beefier pieces at points. When the gear runs out at the top, it's time to really turn it on.
About 30 feet right of Black and Tan. Look for squatty pillar with several different crack options. American Cesar is the right most dihedral from the top of fat pillar.
Everything from 00 Tcus to #2 camalots, a set of RP, or other offsets, small, medium, large wires, and if you happen to have them, 2 red Lowe Balls at the high crux will make you think that that the world is a right and just place. For the moment. Or placing them in the middle of the crux may fry you... It's commonly done without Loweballs.
The last rest before the top crux.
The full view, including Dan Foster with an attent...
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power stemming! This thing is a full value onsight. You don't need ball-nuts or brass for this bad boy but bring a solid lead head.