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An awesome adventure route waaaaay back in Mormon Canyon. Like it's twin Made In The Shade, the first couple pitches are not that great, but the upper pitches are awesome! This climb has the odd distinction of having a 5.11- section on a 5.10+ climb. Hey don't blame me; I didn't rate it!
P1: Find your way up to a big ledge. A bolt is visible just above this ledge, just right of the crack system you will be climbing.
P2: Can probably be linked with pitch 1 with several runners and a long rope. Climb up & right past a bolt, then continue straight up the crack system to a big, sloping ledge with a tree. (A few moves of 5.10-)
P3: Ascend cracks to a beautiful left-facing corner on solid rock. Climb this (5.10) to an optional belay on the left, or keep climbing up the corner (5.10-) to a nice ledge atop the buttress on the right.
P4: Continue up the obvious crack to a short .11- section, then up easier ground to the rap anchors.
To descend, rap the route with 2 ropes.
WARNING!!! When I climbed this route (fall 2010) there was a large bees nest near the climb. They never bothered us at all, but it was kind of ominous hearing the constant buzzing for the first 2 pitches.
Approach as for Earth Angel, but instead of scrambling up the steep gulley to the base of E.A. continue up the main drainage for 2 more drainages on the right. Take the second drainage gulley on the right after the one for EA, and bushwhack up this, at one point using a fixed rope as a hand-line. Once near the top of the gulley, head right to the large buttress on the right, then up to where the buttress meets the alcove. This is the opposite side the same buttress that Made In The Shade is on. The climb starts in the upper right corner of the alcove, about 30' right of the main corner system that splits the buttress on the right and the main alcove on the left.
A double set of cams from fingers thru #3 camalot, nuts, several runners.
By A. Frost
Mar 16, 2011
Warning: Do NOT follow approach beta for this or any route in Mormon Canyon (besides Earth Angel) as described in Bloom's Castles in the Sand.
By Matt S
Mar 17, 2011
get a tad lost , did we ?