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Last route before the beginning of the eastern wall with all the hard overhanging routes. Start by pulling a hard overhang onto a crimpy face. Climb up the face to the 4th bolt and pull the crux. Finish the route out by continuing to the right on the face. This route is highly sustained and offers 5.10d Ė 11a climbing almost all the way to the top. This route bares a G safety rating if you use the cam in the middle or an R safety rating if you do not.
Mixed sport lead (.5 - 2 sized Camalots for the middle section)
By Eric "Pig" Varley
Sep 17, 2012
Fantastic route with a lot of variety. I'd give it 3-stars, missing the one due to the start being a bit of an awkward stem that just wants to spit you out.
I cannot emphasize enough the need for additional pro if you are going to lead this route. A ground fall is possible at the top of the runnout. The crack will take anything from 0.5"-1".