Amazon Tower is a 400' tall, thin, mostly detached spire. It was first shown to me on a short casual drive with Eric Bjornstad. After traveling over Hurrah Pass, and past the Wind Caves, the sky unleashed a few inches of rain in a short time. The washes we had previously driven over were now raging rivers. I was singing the theme song to gilligans Island as we waited out the storm, periodically sending my lab into the water to test the depth. To spot three unclimbed summits (Amazon, Solstice, and Carousel Butte) on one drive only cost me a bottle of wine (for Eric) and a 6 hour adventure. The Tower was first climbed in 1998 by Dave Mealey, Matt Vanosdell, and Andy Roberts up a route starting on the right side of the West face. It was recently (March 09') climbed by a new route up the East face by Brad Brandewie, and Sam Lightner, Jr.
There are two ways to get to the tower. The first is over Hurrah Pass to the Lockart Basin Road. From Hurrah Pass follow the road south, around 3 miles there is a T, take the right branch. At the top of the hill keep left on a dirt trail. A mile and a half further take the left branch at another T toward the Wind Caves. The Wind Caves are a clump of Cutler sandstone, that has connected rooms, that have been slowly carved out by the wind. (Great place to camp)The tower is visible on the right side of the Wingate buttress to the east (left) of the Wind Caves. Drive Southeast on a progressively worse dirt road, up Dripping Springs Basin, staying left of the Carousel Butte. Just past the butte park the car and start hiking east, passing the tower to a steep gully. To avoid this semi epic approach there is an alternative approach from above. Take the Needles Overlook Road to access the Anticline Overlook Road (aka Hatch Point Road). A mile or so before the Overlook, there is a road off to the left (Minor Overlook) that ends at a circle. Park and start hiking southwest to the rim behind the tower, where there is a rap anchor.
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Amazon Tower - Original Route 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c A1+ Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400'
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Four Peckers and an Amazon 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b A2+ R UT : Moab Area : ... : Amazon Tower
This route takes off from the notch between the tower and the main wall. IT starts with a 90 foot seam, followed by broken free climbing to the summit. The aid seem is perfect for peckers and thin pins (at the moment). We only had 4 of such, so we were forced to do like 15-25 feet of climbing (occasional other gear) then place a bolt, lower and clean, and repeat the process. That said, there are like 4 bolts on the first pitch to break up the seem. It could be done on nothing but peckers, but t...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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