Amazing Grace  5.11d R

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Earl Wiggins, Leonard Coyne, Ed Webster, 1977 Submitted By:  Bosier Parsons on Nov 1, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route basically follows the right-hand rope in...

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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>> The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This might be the quintessential free-climbing hardman pitch at the Garden. It climbs pretty much straight up to the saddle between Tweedle Dum Shire and the Upper West Face on North Gateway Rock. The route is hard, sustained, runout, and sees few ascents, but the climbing is excellent.

Start at the large pothole just off the ground and about 50' north of The Warren Route. Go up and right from the pothole past the first pin and make a difficult mantle, followed by sustained and steep edging to get to the 2nd pin. Another difficult section gains some good edges with a few easier moves to the 3rd pin. (Caution - a fall just before clipping either the 2nd or 3rd pins has potential for decking without a careful belay, so be ready). Breathe a little, then continue up past another 5.11 move and sustained 5.10 climbing on sometimes fragile edges and flakes. Gain another good rest at the second up-and-leftward angling, lighter-colored, sedimentary layer of rock. From here, the angle eases, but the climbing will still get your attention until near the top of the pitch. Although there are additional runouts on the upper parts of the route, all the pins are pretty solid.

I consider this yet another testament to the very high standard of free climbing being displayed by our legendary forefathers in the late '70s. To me, Amazing Grace is the perfect name for this time-honored test-piece.

(FA info taken from Soft Touch III guidebook by Mark Rolofson.)

Protection 

Quickdraws for 11 drilled pitons and a 3-pin anchor. Rappel with one 70m rope.

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BETA PHOTO: The route basically follows the right-hand rope, b...