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Amazing Grace 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Danny Meyers
Season: Cool spot for summer
Page Views: 841
Submitted By: meo on May 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The route climbs the lower slab to the corner abov...


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By meo
May 20, 2007

A great route if you can get by the first 3 bolts "all of which need to be replaced" then you can protect the rest of the route. I placed 2 med. nuts and had doubles of mid-size Camalots to #2. Save a #2 for the final move to the anchor. This route may seem harder for it's rating while on lead. Have a good time face climbing and doing liebacks on smeary footholds. The anchor has 1 good bolt and 2 (replacable) old bolts. Rappel with 2 ropes or 1 70m.
By Boneware
Jun 7, 2007

i agree the bolts need to be replaced, the first 3 are star drives and at the anchor you have 2 star drives and a SMC hanger on a 3/8 if i remember correctly.
You can make it down with a single 60m rope just watch the ends.

Great route in a great location.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Bolts are pretty bad - Old, 1/4 inch, rusty, Star Drive. Too bad - good line in nice area
By Cultivating Mass
May 9, 2011

Replaced all lead bolts with new SS 3/8 hardware. Top anchor has one Star Dryvin left for historical fun, the rest is as modern and safe as you could ever wish for. This is still a technical, heady lead-the corner is thin and takes effort to protect well, but the route's safe to fall off now.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Definitely a heady lead. The gear at the beginning of the corner is a little finicky. 60m rope puts you down easily. Thanks for the bolts Killis.