Amaretto Corner 

Terrific Route! The upper half of the first pitch (all we did) is a bit funky, with sliding fist jams - chicken wing things, but a great route. Overhang is weird, but easier than it looks.

I climbed the first pitch at the end of the day expecting to finish my day with an easy 5.9 pitch (well as easy as 5.9 crack climbing can be in IC), but to my surprise it felt nothing like 5.9. It may not be as long as all the 5.10 cracks on supercrack buttress (3 AM, No name crack...), but I think it is technically just as challenging as any of those routes. It has some off-fist sections so #4 camalots are nice for the top section. I would give the first pitch a 5.10 rating with.

I'd say the first pitch is easy 10 since I got up it with a minimum of flailing, which is unusual for me on Indian Creek 10s. Great first pitch - especially the hands section.

Pitch 2 is a classic Indian Creek Corner on dark varnish. A layback event on mostly #1.5 and #2 Friends. Don't miss it.

The 1999 Sharp End guidebook states that "pitch one goes from thin hands to fist (with an offwidth move)". This is not accurate. It starts as hands (#2 Camalot) and quickly goes to #3 Camalot size. The last 15-20' of the first pitch is #4 Camalot size, awkward, and definitely offwidth. I would recommend bringing 2 #4 Camalots, or be willing to scooch a single one up for 15' or so.

Mike is right, this thing gets into the #3s pretty quick. A great pitch though for how short it is. I think I only placed one #4 close to the top, although a #4.5 would protect the mantel. Definately a grunt fest to finish.

P1 is probably 9+. Gets a little wide at the top. Two new #4 camalots worked for me but you could bring a 4 and a 5 and be happy too. Pull the grunty OW bulge to gain the belay. Cool pitch for sure!

P2 is hard 11. Right facing corner up off fingers for me. Mainly red aliens, 1 - 1.5 friends, .5 - .75 camalots. A few smaller pieces is a good idea. Sustained and tough. Start is a ways away from the P1 belay. Great line though!

4 star for sure!

CL

Excellent climbing. The wide section above the pod is 5.10 OW but below it is 5.9 climbing. Good stuff! I would like to get it clean next time... Overall, the pitch is 5.10.

I agree w/ 5.10 ow I took the whip on hand stacks and proceeded to puke
It was epic. I know I should be ashamed but I am proud to have stuck with the stacks instead of lie backing. It was a memorable first ow lead for sure.