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Chimney Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
8th and Main T 
Amanecer S 
Another Roadside Attraction T 
Boardwalk T 
Centerpiece T 
Coherent Excitation T 
Copperhead 5 T 
Crows Nest T 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 
George's Buttress T,TR 
Georges Peach T,S 
Jungle Gym T 
Mistaken Identity T 
New Year's Eve T 
Perfect Peter T 
Shriveled Penis T 
Single Lens Reflex T 
Standard Route T 
Stonedmasters T 
Stoner's Boner T 
Straight Arrow T 
Stripper T 
Tomorrow is Today S 
Unstrung Harp T 
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 
Veranda T 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 


YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cook, 2000
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: Christian on Oct 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The lower half of Amanecer.


Solid 5.12 on dead vertical to very slightly overhanging rock = long powerful moves between small holds.

Not sure whether the arete left of the bolt line towards the top is on or not.


In corridor on north side of Chimney Rock, access by hiking around to climber's left of George's Buttress.

Look for face with bright green lichen just around the corner from the West face.



Photos of Amanecer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper half of Amanecer.
BETA PHOTO: The upper half of Amanecer.

Comments on Amanecer Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 22, 2009

Hey Christian, this route was actually put up by Mike Cook. The initials should have been MCo but I blew it. Jimbo said and you confirmed it, the route is contrived. If you have to ask if it is on then it is contrived. Outside if you are not bouldering there is no on or off. Like the new one at Jailhouse, if you can reach it you can use it. How hard would it be if you didn't contrive it?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 22, 2009

Cool, FA info fixed.

The arete at the top definitely made it easier, have no idea how hard overall it would be going straight up??? 12 c/d? Just stoked to actually get to top without having to bail.

"Tomorrow is Today" actually looked better but the start was looking a little sketchy to me after expending some energy finally leading SLR :-)
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 17, 2011

A crystal blew off on me today while I was on this... it now looks like it would be even harder to go straight up and avoid the arete.
By Ken Head
From: Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2013

Was there when Mike finally got it clean. Definitely goes straight up and not on the arete. Fun route. Miss you bud.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 13, 2015

8 bolts to a chain anchor. Some might use a stick clip as the first bolt is high; however, the climbing isn't too difficult and the landing is flat. The route is shaded until approximately 2pm.

I climbed this route following the path of least resistance and ended up using the wide crack / arete from bolts 5 to 7. Restricting yourself to the face just seems silly as I was never more than an arms length from the bolt line. Climbed in this manner the route is around 12a and quite fun.

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