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Amandla 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: To first anchor: Andy Deklerk, 1991 Extension: Ben Gilkison, 2007
Season: Late Fall-Early Spring
Page Views: 3,809
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Andy Deklerk on Amandla (5.13c), Index Town Walls....

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure on the Diamond MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This brilliant route leaves Numbah Ten after the 6th bolt and heads right through a roof and up onto a technical arete that is just under vertical. Some ascents have likely climbed to the right after the roof to take advantage of a full rest on Iron Horse before moving back left to establish on the arete; this reduces the grade to about .13a as it allows one to start the Powerhorse (Iron Horse into Amandla) sequence fully rested (and chalked). If climbed directly without the jaunt right into the rest, the sequence of moves is much harder and the route feels far more sustained. In any case, the climbing is a remarkable mixture of power and finesse, difficult nearly the whole way through. Temperature and humidity are both important considerations when attempting the route unless your granite technique is absolutely flawless.

The extension continues above the anchor over the roof past one bolt to a more logical finish at an anchor on a large ledge (.13c/d). The first section of this will be desperate if you can't simply stem across the feature. A small stopper and a finger-size cam protect the final section above the bolt.

Location 

One 70m rope reaches the ground from the top anchor; otherwise a 60m is sufficient. Route starts as for Numbah Ten in an obvious groove left of Iron Horse.

Protection 

13 quickdraws plus anchor; one more quickdraw plus small nuts/tcu's for the extension.


Comments on Amandla Add Comment
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By blakeherrington
Jan 10, 2015

This pitch is amazing - it has to be one of the best single pitches of granite climbing anywhere. Definitely end this by climbing up and over the roof (either rightward or leftward), it provides a final redpoint crux just after anchor #1, and seems like the only logical finish. The original anchor spot doesn't make any sense. As to the 13a vs 13c question (depending on if you step right into Iron horse) There isn't an easy or obvious way to escape over into the Iron Horse flare. It may be possible, but sticking to the arete doesn't feel forced.
By Drewsky
Feb 12, 2016

Comments about bolting were deleted because a discussion about it was had elsewhere. As it stands, Amandla has new bolts, some in quite different locations than before. There's definitely a bolt on the lower part of the arete where there wasn't one before and the one before the arete has been relocated down and to the right. The anchor has also been moved up underneath the roof, essentially including what had been the crux of the extension as part of the lower route.
By Thomas Ramier
Feb 27, 2016

I'm not sure that it is a sandbag for the folks that stay in the flare. I've witnessed three successful non-knee baring ascents of Numba Ten since I moved them and no complaints.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Feb 29, 2016

I deleted comments that didn't seem helpful for the readers just wanting to find out about the route's qualities.

Sorry to take away from those who enjoyed the various arguments that were occurring here (yes, they were thoughtful and interesting), but it had gotten a bit long-winded and just didn't seem like the right place.

Perhaps the Pacific NW forum here on Mt. Proj. would be better for discussions about route changes and rebolting efforts at Index.

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