Amadeus 5.10a
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Description The crux is near the top were the hands get smooooth. Face climbing with good footwork. Really look for the holds and they're all there.
Location Starts just left of the tree. Follow the old chopped bolts to stay on route. The tree is off :)
Protection Use the bolted anchor straight above the tree on the end. Not the one at the very end (west side)about 5' down from all the other bolts.
By Clay Zamperini
From: Tarzana, CA
Apr 28, 2011
| Fun route, especially near the top. Felt like 5.9 for most of it, but the crux definitely felt harder than 10a. I'm a pretty tall guy with a +2 reach, and it was still a hell of a reach. I don't know if I went off route (i was directly above the tree at the top) or if something has broken, but a balls-high highstep onto a heel, with no positive hands didn't feel like 10a. Crux was way harder than say, Nutcracker. |
By Ryan House
May 13, 2011
| For the people with a little less reach, there is a VERY small crimp at the crux on the left, almost no chalk and you can barely see it because it's TINY but if you can tough it out it REALLY helps get your feet in better position to make the last reach much easier. My 5'6" girlfriend found it and it was the only way she could get up. |
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