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Cathedral Wall
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Altar Boy T 
Big Easy, The T 
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Dalke Route T 
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Altar Boy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Billy Westbay & Douglas Snively
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jul 19, 2010

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Dean is following P5....

Description 

Altar Boy is one of the better routes on the Cathedral Wall. It offers up difficult route finding and is constantly runout at the ~5.7 level. The route lies between the Dalke and Kor Routes. The first pitch does a wild hand traverse left above the large, right-leaning, roof system.

P1a: (5.8 R, 100 feet) Start 20 feet left of the Kor Route and angle left on grassy ledges to a vegetated crack. Slab climb to a bulge and belay to reduce rope drag on the next pitch.

P1b: (5.8 R/X, 125 feet, off-route variation) Start as for the Flying Nun variation but angle right under the roof system. Runout slab climbing above bad gear leads to P1a.

P1/2c: (5.10b, Flying Nun variation) Follow the thin, runout, crack system above the tree on the left side of the roof.

P2: (5.8/5.6 R, 120 feet) Climb the tail end of the roof system to a wild hand traverse left for 25-30 feet. Angle left on 5.6 R face climbing and belay on the ledge.

P3: (5.8/5.7 R, ~130 feet) All options above appear to have no gear for 50 feet. Angle left on positive holds and proceed up. Enough gear appears to keep it just "R" rated. Belay from a one inch crack on the left after passing a couple steps.

P4: (5.8 R, ~140 feet) We angled slightly left from the belay and pieced together gear placements. Aim for the open book crack system in the orange rock above. Belay near a large boulder.

P5: (5.9/5.7 R, 150 feet) Head straight up to the LF dihedral and place gear. Pull right onto the face and run it out to the main corner system. Pass a couple 5.9 bulges and belay at the second stance.

P6: (5.9/5.8R, 90 feet) Tricky runout climbing is found as you join the Dalke's route's traverse pitch. Head up the dihedral and make a long unprotected traverse left to find gear. (4 foot sling) A traverse back right leads you to a hard move before the belay.

P7: (5.9/5.6 R/X, 130 feet) Head up the short dihedral and finish the Dalke traverse to the right. After passing the roof, following positive holds around the corner. Continue for ~50 feet until you can't traverse anymore. A cranky bulge leads to a good ledge.

P8: (5.5, 160 feet) Follow ledges and blocks to a RF V-slot in the final headwall.


Location 

P1 climbs through the right side of the large roof to the left of the Kor Route.


Protection 

Gear to #3 with doubles to 1.5inches, one set of nuts....



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