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Easier climbing on bigger holds lead to a marginal rest, then the crux at mid height where you can get settled on the 'shocker monos' (index and pinky) or a double set of marginal crimps. Either way you have to make a BIG move to a nice pocket to clip (big for me at 5'8", -2). Find your way through a multitude of interesting holds and either escape right of the bolt line in easier, but harder to read grey rock, or use the nice pockets up the face for a little harder finish.
Just left of the cutoff stump and the start of Bean Fiddler, it skirts the right side of a wide blonde streak. This is the 7th route from the left.
8 bolts to chain anchors.
By peter heekin
Aug 15, 2013
Bolted by Alex McMeekin. F.A. by Erik Leidecker after Al had to quit climbing because of injury.