Alpinista Sista 5.9
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Brad belaying Tony on the first pitch of alpinista...
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Description The new book says 3 pitches but i think the second set of anchors is intended for the decent and can easily be done in 2. Great route with varied climbing and a fun mantle move. A little grainy but with a little more traffic should clean up nicely.
Location East side of the pillar.
Protection The book says bolts and a little gear but i diddnt find gear to be necissary at all. Chain anchors.
| Comments on Alpinista Sista |
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By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Jun 6, 2011
| A micro-cam can be placed on the first pitch but is probably not necessary. |
By Carl Rene Pelletier From: Jackson, Wyoming Sep 12, 2011
| The "3rd" pitch made this route (a cool, exposed mantle). We ended up doing it in 3 pitches, but you can run the first and second together. The pro you can plug in is on the "2nd" pitch, but you don't need much (if any...maybe .75 and a few nuts) ... you can also sling a few chicken heads. |
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Oct 6, 2011
| After getting blown off on the first attempt, was able to finish this. I combined 2nd and 3rd pitches but this required some long slings at start of third pitch and belayer cannot see you. Think Carl is right and combining 1 and very short 2nd pitch is best way. A medium nut or small cam is only gear you might want. Two 30 meter raps to ground. |
By Tim Wolfe From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 17, 2012 rating: 5.9
| Probably the best on the this side of the wall and worth doing if you are in the area (across the way at the Sailor wall is better). We easily combined the first two pitches - you might want a single big wire to protect this second pitch after you step up above the belay. the final pitch has a short cool mantle sequence and then is easy. |
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