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Bracksiek's Pillar
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Alpinista Sista S 
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Pre-Emptive Strike S 

Alpinista Sista 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,018
Submitted By: Mike Roghaar on Apr 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Mantle at start of P3 along with the moves right a...

Description 

The new book says 3 pitches but i think the second set of anchors is intended for the decent and can easily be done in 2. Great route with varied climbing and a fun mantle move. A little grainy but with a little more traffic should clean up nicely.

Location 

East side of the pillar.

Protection 

The book says bolts and a little gear but i diddnt find gear to be necissary at all. Chain anchors.


Photos of Alpinista Sista Slideshow Add Photo
Brad belaying Tony on the first pitch of alpinista sista
Brad belaying Tony on the first pitch of alpinista...
Cruising the final moves.
Cruising the final moves.
looking up
looking up

Comments on Alpinista Sista Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 6, 2011

A micro-cam can be placed on the first pitch but is probably not necessary.
By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Sep 12, 2011

The "3rd" pitch made this route (a cool, exposed mantle). We ended up doing it in 3 pitches, but you can run the first and second together. The pro you can plug in is on the "2nd" pitch, but you don't need much (if any...maybe .75 and a few nuts) ... you can also sling a few chicken heads.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 6, 2011

After getting blown off on the first attempt, was able to finish this. I combined 2nd and 3rd pitches but this required some long slings at start of third pitch and belayer cannot see you. Think Carl is right and combining 1 and very short 2nd pitch is best way. A medium nut or small cam is only gear you might want. Two 30 meter raps to ground.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Probably the best on the this side of the wall and worth doing if you are in the area (across the way at the Sailor wall is better). We easily combined the first two pitches - you might want a single big wire to protect this second pitch after you step up above the belay. the final pitch has a short cool mantle sequence and then is easy.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 3, 2014

No gear is needed. A chickenhead can be slung on the way up the "2nd" micro pitch to protect it. Powerful but easy moves to get past it.

Both pitches are solid 5.9, with some improbable and fun movement.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jan 3, 2014

2 days and a bunch of routes later this was, overall, my favorite multi-pitch we did in the area. As Garret said, for the "2nd" pitch put an extended sling on P1 anchors and head up on good holds up the little face. Once you can peak over it you can sling a horn to protect yourself from decking as you do a dynamic move for the lip.