Alpine packs that carry well

I had a Cilogear pack that I loved for years. A few years ago I was in a serious climbing accident that (among the highlights) broke my back and neck.

I've been very lucky, and despite having a robo-spine (I'm fused from t3-t9) I've healed extremely well. My back doesn't give me much trouble climbing, but I do have trouble carrying a backpack for long approaches. My traps don't do well with the weight any longer, and my traps, neck and serratus get extremely uncomfortable after awhile.

My Cilo is now a no-go (hence me selling it in another thread).
I have an Osprey pack that carries well that I like for cragging, but the plethora of pockets and "features" kind of annoys me.

I like the versatility and simplicity of my cilo, and felt like it did what an alpine pack was supposed to.

Does anyone have any recommendations for packs to try out? I'm looking for something with the simple design of packs like a Cilo or Cold Cold World, but a more cushy suspension that will be more forgiving on long approaches.

I really like Black Diamond alpine packs. There aren't a lot of pockets and stuff to get in the way, just the things you need. I like the crampon pocket and the slim design that doesn't get in the way when you're climbing. The suspension and straps work well. I've way over burdened mine a couple of times by filling it with aid climbing gear and strapping a portaledge to it for the the approach and descent and it was still reasonably comfortable and held together well.

You might look at the Trango crag pack. It's burly / heavy, and I originally got it as just a cragging pack, but I end up taking it into the alpine pretty often because it carries so well. The suspension is very comfy.

I have BD speed pack 40L pack and could not be more happy.

Backcountry hunting packs are designed to carry tons of weight out, and usually have fairly comfy hip belts to support that load. If you need to move the weight onto your hips, this could be a good way to go. As far as no-frills light weight packs, see:

Kuiu (comes in other colors besides camo)

Paradox / Seek Outside (bigger volumes)

Once I can justify spending the $ on a hauling pack, it will be one of these two brands

If you have much curve in your lumbar the pataguchi ascenionist frame does a great job of transferring weight to your hips/pelvis.

I broke my neck and back too. So I sometimes have pain after long days. I have the Black Diamond Mission 50. I dismissed it at first because I wanted something fancy like Cilogear or CCW. I finally walked into IME after needing a pack bigger than 35L and pulled the trigger. I'm really happy with that pack! The floating waist belt is the most comfortable I've used. The Mission 50 carries heavy weight well. I think you should at least check it out yourself.

A friend of mine has a Cold Cold World Chernobyl. We switched packs one day on the way back to the car. The hike back was about two hours with everything from bushwhacking to flat ground. I was impressed enough that I wanted one. The only thing is you can't try it out I the store. I used to see CCW packs at IME but now I think they'll only mail order.

If you've had good luck with Osprey, have you looked at their alpine packs like the Mutant or Variant?

i initially bought the patagonia ascentionist 45L. I liked the ice axe attachment method and added a woven bungie for my crampons. the pack was light and basic. used it a decent amount and then the internal frame start tearing through the inside of the pack. that disappointed me.

to replace it, i recently purchased the mammut trion guide 35+7. so far i really like it. feels much more sturdy (at the cost of a little bit more weight). sits well on my back. ice axe attachment is nice. my favorite thing about it is the giant side zip entrance into the main compartment. that is such a great feature. ive worn this pack for a fair amount of single/two pitch climbs recently to get used to it for the alpine and im pretty happy. i will let you know how it holds up in the mountains in a few weeks.

good luck finding a pack you like.

The Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ice Pack carries super well. Better than the BD, Wild Things, Patagonia, and Arc'teryx packs I've used. Same simplicity of a Cilo pack. The standard version is average durable: more than a Pat Ascensionist, less than a Cragsmith. The full Dyneema version could be an heirloom piece. Backcountry.com is currently selling the full Dyneema version at the standard version price.

I'll be going into my third season with the Lowe Alpine Alpine Attack 45:55 liter climbing pack. I've been very pleased with its construction, features and comfort. Lowe Alpine is releasing a new line of external attachments from a helmet holder to avy and crampon pouches this year. Just like most packs, everything is strippable where you need it to be.

Some great replies here.
Thanks everyone.

Patagonia Ascensionist 45L ... 2nd for that one.

I really like the way it carries, I way overload that thing on the regular. The top closure is a little irritating when flopping a rope over the bag, but it hasn't slowed me down, and if you can get one for $110, its a pretty killer deal.

The 30 may have a lighter suspension system.

A little lighter than the BD packs, but same ballpark.

Drift alert. Do you need a larger alpine pack at this point given your climbing objectives? I think they're only necessary for a few situations:

- multipitch climb with carry-over and/or a descent that doesn't put you back at a convenient pack stashing locale
- ice cragging where you want simple and easy tool and crampon attachment on the outside of a pack

I just ask because over time I've gone more towards carrying my alpine-specific packs less and less even on "alpine" stuff. For multipitch summer rock where I can come back to a camp or convenient stash spot, I take a comfortable but lightweight backpacking pack with the REI Flash 18 inside to carry on route if necessary. This is nominally heavier on the approach but way more comfortable for me (load transfer to hips, cushier shoulder straps on my clavicle). (NOTE: I am kind of a pussy). This approach is also nice on bushwhacky approaches where I don't have hella shit strapped to the outside.

I think a lot of people get climbing-specific packs for cragging and non-alpine stuff, and their "give up" in terms of suspension comfort (and even external pockets) is not necessary in many situations.

I really like the Granite Gear line of backpacking packs for lugging stuff around.

I'm a big fan of the Deuter Guide Tour 45+.

deuter.com/CA/ce/mountain-c…

I love my Patagonis Ascentionist 35L. I've used it on long approaches with up to 30 lbs, and climbed with it, too.

AlpineIce wrote:I'll be going into my third season with the Lowe Alpine Alpine Attack 45:55 liter climbing pack. I've been very pleased with its construction, features and comfort. Lowe Alpine is releasing a new line of external attachments from a helmet holder to avy and crampon pouches this year. Just like most packs, everything is strippable where you need it to be.

that pack is great except for the hip belt,.. it provides absolutely no support because it flexes so much is simply rides up and down instead of staying in place where it should be. I used it with about 35 lbs in it and my shoulders felt like a small gorilla had been beating on me! I also have back issues and this pack amplified them 7 fold!

I sold my cilogear 3030 for a Hyperlite ice pack for a similar reason. I haven't had too much time with it but it seems to carry better and provide plenty of support at minimal weight.

polloloco wrote:I sold my cilogear 3030 for a Hyperlite ice pack for a similar reason. I haven't had too much time with it but it seems to carry better and provide plenty of support at minimal weight.

Great response...I was just wondering how it carried?

The Mammut Trion Pro is my go-to pack for almost all situations. Comfortable with weight, and the zip-open back is super convenient.

JasonSH wrote: that pack is great except for the hip belt,.. it provides absolutely no support because it flexes so much is simply rides up and down instead of staying in place where it should be.

I've had mine stuffed to the top and have had zero problems with the hipbelt. Sorry it didn't work out for you.