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Alpine Ice Ratings, now available
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Site Landlord
Jan 13, 2010
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
Alpine ice (AI) ratings are now available when selecting an ice rating. Previously only water ice (WI) ratings were available. Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,411 points
Jan 13, 2010
Working the sick hand-jams on Stemwide aka Big Dih...
Schaweet! Now, just to be clear, AI ice is merely an indicator of the way in which the ice forms or where it is located right? AI ice is generally more permanent and is usually harder than WI ice right? At least this is what I have thought from my experiences in the alpine on ice.

The number, aka the steepness, is the same. WI2 is just as steep as AI2 right?
Dan Dalton
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 22, 2006
1,537 points
Site Landlord
Jan 13, 2010
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
Dan Dalton wrote:
Schaweet! Now, just to be clear, AI ice is merely an indicator of the way in which the ice forms or where it is located right? AI ice is generally more permanent and is usually harder than WI ice right? At least this is what I have thought from my experiences in the alpine on ice. The number, aka the steepness, is the same. WI2 is just as steep as AI2 right?


I have no idea..... I just added the values :)
Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,411 points
Jan 13, 2010
Me, of course
Now we need NE ice, and AK ice, and HA ice. Evan S
From Erie, CO
Joined Dec 30, 2007
550 points
Jan 13, 2010
Gallatin Canyon
I suppose I better pipe up since I asked for the addition of "alpine ice". Very generally, water ice is formed from water dripping/flowing and freezing, while alpine ice forms from the transition of snow (and related forms of precipitation) to a harder and harder substance, a metamorphosis, if you will.
Tons of situations are a crossover, and there are lots of routes that might be "alpine ice" that will present "water ice" in the right conditions.
So, no hard and fast rules here, as I see it, but maybe a more subtle approach to giving a climb with ice a specific rating.
This all came about because I posted the Black Ice Couloir as a route and didn't think "water ice" was as accurate as an "alpine ice" description. Take it for whatever it's worth. It's all slippery.
Andrew Carson
From Wilson, WY
Joined Jun 19, 2006
1,623 points
Jan 13, 2010
How I Send
Dan - after our conversation last night, I stand corrected. WI and AI use the same scale from 1 to 7. The difference being how they are formed, the number grade refers to the scale and angle of the climbs...

adventure.howstuffworks.com/ou...
Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 23, 2008
299 points
Jun 12, 2010
Please.

AI forms on Mondays, Thurs, and Sundays of the month following the second trimester of the solstace. WI forms when the Baby Jesus forgets to turn off the hose. Now from what I understand, there not need be a specific time, but I hear it usually happens first thing in the morning; sometimes in the middle of the night as well.
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points


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