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Alpine Follies Hangover T 
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Alpine Follies Hangover 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Foster
New Route: Yes
Season: All day sun
Page Views: 1,595
Submitted By: Erock on Mar 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down on the top half of the climb after th...

Description 

This is a new route that climbs a beautiful finger crack splitter that gradually transitions from tips to perfect fingers. The climbing is sustained 11+ with a 25 foot crux section. After the face crack it slowly transitions to the right where the dihedral opens up for the remainder of the climb. Enjoy!

Location 

Right above easy rider, obvious dihedral above. Or to the left of broken arete. 60m rope will get you up and down. The first pitch is done and may go higher.

Protection 

This is what I used on the send.

Two sets of C3 cams (only need one "000" and one "00"), Two green aliens, Two .3 camalots, One .4 camamlots, One .5 camalots and one #3 or #2 camalot where you can place in the short 2 foot wide section half way up.

Gear starts out with the smallest stuff first then transitions to the larger pieces so rack accordingly.

Don't bother with passive pro on this climb.

There are 2 belay bolts (1/2 inchers) at the bottom of the climb that are there because of the loose drop off behind the climb which make for a secure belay. Anchors are double rings (1/2 inchers).


Photos of Alpine Follies Hangover Slideshow Add Photo
Splitter
Splitter
Just above the crux.  Picture on rappel while I wa...
Just above the crux. Picture on rappel while I wa...
Looking up from the bottom.  Starts as tips then s...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the bottom. Starts as tips then s...
The upper section of the climb.  Short wind sectio...
BETA PHOTO: The upper section of the climb. Short wind sectio...

Comments on Alpine Follies Hangover Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 5, 2012

That is a beautiful crack. I think it is cool you asked if it had been done then went out and did it. Good job.
By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 6, 2012

Thanks, I was just the lucky one that stumbled upon it really. Not sure why it hadn't been climbed previously, it's a stunning line in a really popular area.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 7, 2012

+1 on eric's comment. Superb work!!
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Incredible climb with an amazing position and a great addition to Sedona crack climbing! I was super psyched to get the send with 4 attempts over 2 days. As for the grade A.F.H. is harder overall than routes such as The Watchtower and Castles but does not warrant the same grade as routes such as Linger Fickin' or Shangri-La. Either way A.F.H. is one of the best pure crack lines of its grade in the area!!
For Rack in order of placement:
#000 C3
#00 C3
#0 C3
#1 Red C3
#.3 C4 x2
#2 C4
#.75 C4
#1 Red C3 x2 for a finish straight outta the Canyonlands!!
Now... go do it