Alpine Diversions 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Todd Swain, John Thackray, 1982 |
| Submitted By: | Dana Bartlett on Apr 14, 2010 |
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Alpine Diversions start
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description 1. Climb the thin crack up to a blocky overhang. Once past the overhang, belay at a large pine tree. 5.8.
2. Climb up to the base of an open book, move to the nose on the left side of this, then go up to the left side of the obvious overhang. Climb the overhang (crux), then go to the right edge of the face. After that, it's straight to the top.
Location About 150 feet or so right of the nose of the High Exposure Buttress. Go past the Third Trapps Chimney, then look for a large, right-facing flake about 15-20 feet high. This is the start of Obstacle Delusion. Alpine Diversions is 15 feet or so right of that. You should see a short, indistinct crack that is immediately left of a small chimney.
Protection Standard 'Gunks rack
| Comments on Alpine Diversions |
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By JSH
Administrator
Apr 15, 2010
| For me, the move just off the ground is just beyond my reach .... and although I end up stemming off of the chimney later on, the first few moves up the crack do seem to clock in around 5.8 anyway. I agree that the first pitch as a whole seems contrived, between the chimney and the very little amount of climbing that's on it.
Beware of pine sap from the tree! |
By doligo
Oct 4, 2010
| The open book leading to the final roof looks pretty sweet, but the crack in the middle of it, is filled with dirt and grass and the next jug is pretty high up at least for me. So I went right, to the nose and skipped the open book and traversed back to the roof. In retrospect, I should have tried cleaning it with my nut tool - maybe someone reading this can do that, this will also create a good pro for the move I think...
P1 starting move sucks for shorties - I squeezed myself into the chimney on the right to avoid it. |
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 9, 2011
| I lead P1 today and I am a total shorty. It took a few minutes, but, I finally figured out how to launch for the jug without using the chimney. P1 is meh, P2 is a lot more bang for the buck. |
By SethG
Dec 5, 2011
| The starting move is not height-dependent! Look to the left for a crucial sidepull...
Pretty good climb. The first move is pretty much the whole enchilada on pitch one. Pitch two's first overhang is a good challenge. |
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