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Alpine Bouldering Club (A.B.C.) 
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Alpine Bouldering Club (A.B.C.) 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6- Font: 7A [details]
FA: Remo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,849
Submitted By: TravisMelin on Sep 13, 2008

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Dobbe loving it.

Description 

Hard sit start on the left side of the boulder. Tough gastons to start, then into hug and heeling moves. End with many different variations...big pocket out left...continued gastons... or by slapping the crack out right. Choose your own adventure.


Location 

Hike to the top of the ridge 50ft past Hang loose. You should be standing at the end of a small clearing. Turn 90 degrees to the left (East). Staying below the ridge walk approx. 100ft into the woods, cross a rocky drainage ditch, and the boulder should be right in front of you. Its about a 5min walk if you know where your going. Left side of Vadge Boulder.


Protection 

Pad



Photos of Alpine Bouldering Club (A.B.C.) Slideshow Add Photo
Great problem!  April 09.
Great problem! April 09.
Remo on FA
Remo on FA
So steep!
BETA PHOTO: So steep!
left arete, very cool line.
left arete, very cool line.
Remo going for the sloper
Remo going for the sloper
Boulders represent!!!!!
Boulders represent!!!!!
Working the moves...
Working the moves...
Comments on Alpine Bouldering Club (A.B.C.) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 16, 2008
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Sep 13, 2008

I have only done this from a stand start. The obvious line is surely a sit however. When I was there it was literally dripping wet...so the sit was impossible, in dry conditions im sure it would go. has anyone sent this? Saw chalk on it and am curious...remo? dobbe? vince?

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 13, 2008
rating: V6 7A

We tried this for a long time. Vince and I figured out some crazy crimping and pinching on the best holds and tried throwing to the large pocket up left, never sent it though. Hard for sure, but super fun.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Sep 13, 2008

Cool, how close were you guys? Was the left arete helpful? Seems like the crux would be in the first couple moves, yea?

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2008
rating: V6 7A

Almost had it yesterday using some small guy beta. The top was so wet and dirty, just needs a little more cleaning.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2008
rating: V6 7A

Done- "Alpine Bouldering Club" V5. Super Fun!

By SteveSchultz
Sep 19, 2008

Nice Remo. I like the name. Sounds familiar....

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 19, 2008
rating: V6- 7A

jeez i dont go for 2 weeks and all the projects get cleaned up. nice job bro!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2008
rating: V6 7A

Yeah Steve the name stems from the DL problem. We now have an early morning bouldering club- members welcome.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Sep 19, 2008

Nicely done Remo. We were up there this afternoon and did it as well. Also added a direct that didnt use the large jug on the left face. I thought the direct was v7 and this route V5-6. From your pics it looks like you did a direct line too. You boulderers are so strong.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 20, 2008
rating: V6 7A

Trav, good work man. I guess the problem is on the harder side of the V5 range, maybe 6. Did you guys use the little two finger flake above the first pocket. You can really crank off that little hold. I just hope it doesn't break, that would make things harder for sure.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 24, 2008
rating: V6 7A

This boulder does not exist. Clever forgery photos...

By Dobbe
Sep 25, 2008

Chris the easiest way to get there is to get on top of the welcome to the top problems and there is a lite trail going back and left. Stay about even with the left ridge line until you hit a rocky old creek bed it is just on the other side of the creek just head down till you see it. The problem is not that far maybe a 3 minute hike from the welcome to the top.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2008
rating: V6 7A

Thanks Dobbe. That is essentially what both Travis and Remo told me too. I think I was dropped on my head as a baby. In grade school, they said, "doesn't follow directions very well". Hope to find it eventually one of these tries. Maybe the third time will be a charm.

Although I had a lot of fun on the Backbone since I headed there after failing to find it. The new-ish stuff up there is very fun: Trail Crew, Midwest Hardcore, Press It Out... Gave a couple tries on Battle of the Bulge too, some of the sharpness has worn off which is good news for me and my tender tips. Good work up there.

By Brian Runnells
Nov 16, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

Cool problem/boulder. Didn't use the jug around left mostly because I forgot that it was there. Not sure if it would make it that much easier/harder to use it.