Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 6,068 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel

You & This Route


62 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

The start of the route is sequential, starting with your right hand will help TONS.

From the start to the crux is solid 10 but the chills out to a fun 8ish afterwards.

IMHO this is one of the MOST fun climbs at its grade at the lake.

Protection Suggest change

Actually this is a Mixed route, with a pin right after the crux.

Spoiler-alert - James Schroeder adds headpoint gear-beta: Suggest change

General:
  • Hard to find anything bigger than a #1 C4 before the ledge.
  • A crash pad might make the crux-boulder-problem start feel reasonable.
Specific:
  • A #000 C3 before the pin might make the moves to the pin feel better.
  • The pin is getting sketchy (can a #1 KB be anything but?) - a large "pin-side" carabiner on your QD will probably lever over the edge, whereas a smaller probably won't.
  • A #0.4 X4 slots in the horizontal after the pin - not the greatest piece.
  • A few more moves to decent gear in the corner where a variety of small cams (#0.3 X4 to #1 C4) to the ledge.
5/23/18

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