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S-Curve - Lower
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Alpenbock Route 
Black Monday 
Bourbon Street 
Choir Boy 
Chorus Line 
City Slave 
Clastic Cling 
Cross Town 
Gas Chamber 
Ionic Bonding 
Madison Avenue 
Mass Wasting 
Melting Point 
Not Much 
Old Route 
Red Light District 
Skid Row Variation 
Times Square 
Tres Facile 
Unknown 

Alpenbock Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Sep 27, 2006
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Description 

Start in the corner underneath the Mass Wasting roof. The climbing gets really easy on the ramp, but protection opportunities are rare, so don't pass any up (there are belay chains here if you have a 50 meter rope and can't reach the bottom). Climb around the left (West) side of the Mass Wasting roof and pass a rusty pin. This is where the fun of the route begins. Wind your way up the steep section until you arrive under a small roof. A thin finger-tip crack traverses up and to the right around the roof, providing an exposed, crux finish. Good footwork and sequential hands are key to unlocking the crux. Believe it or not, there are good stances for pro here.


Location 

Between Ionic Bonding and Mass Wasting, start in the corner just left (West) of Red Light District. Walk off or rappel off of Ionic Bonding's chain anchors.


Protection 

Standard rack and a helmet, small TCUs help at the crux. The Ruckman guide shows 3 pins, I only saw one, and it was super manky (and next to a bomber #1 camalot placement). Rope drag is a bear, even if you use long runners. No anchors at top.



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