|468 page views|
BETA PHOTO: If you look closely, you can see my orange rope wi...
This route is the slab that goes up on the right hand side of the Stingray roof. It features cool wavy slab climbing. The crux is right off the ground, and there is one bolt about 15 or 20 feet up. If you do this route, be very careful because if you blow the 5.8 moves above the first bolt just before you get to some jugs, your belayer would need to take in lots of slack to keep you from decking from 40 feet.
After the bolt, wander up the face getting very sparse but good gear in horizontals (5.8R). Make sure you wander throughout the route as necessary to follow holds and gear. This route doesn't follow any grooves or water streaks, so it stays relatively dry after periods of wet weather.
When you are level with groover, bushwhack west until you see a giant lichen-covered buttress. the clean slabs on which this climb is located are behind this buttress. When you get to the slabs, locate the roof and walk right until you are under a bolt 20 feet up that is under the right edge of the big roof
One protection bolt, two-bolt ring anchor. Bring pro to #1 camalot. Bring lots of long slings as it wanders quite a bit to follow natural weaknesses. I used a single locker to clip the first bolt because that one less foot of slack may keep you off the ground if you blow it.
BETA PHOTO: View from below