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The Thin Wall
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Almost Vertical 
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Face of Tammy Faye, The 
No Calculators Allowed 
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Square Root 

Almost Vertical 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Alan Roberts & Kristin Laird, 12/87
Page Views: 1,619
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 25, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall

Description 

This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the thin Wall's E. Side and orient according to the photo. This climb is the third major crack system from the right end of the wall. Climb a singular crack system using upward toward the top, reaching the left side of a dome like formation nea the top.Good climbing, singular line.


Protection 

I did not lead this route, but it appeared to be doable with a light standard rack. It is also a good solo *8_).



Photos of Almost Vertical Slideshow Add Photo
Myong working her way up Almost Vertical.
Myong working her way up Almost Vertical.
Almost Vertical, (5.7) on the Thin Wall
BETA PHOTO: Almost Vertical, (5.7) on the Thin Wall
Easy 5.7
Easy 5.7
Bill Parmenter leading Almost Vertical.
Bill Parmenter leading Almost Vertical.
Comments on Almost Vertical Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kanyu
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Good pro, no crux, straight forward for beginning leaders. Set your own anchor on top. Walk off to the right (facing the route) with short secure down climb sections.

The route is in shade in the PM.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007

I agree no real crux but what a fun climb! Straightforward crack with plenty face holds. Ran it out on two pieces just for the mental security. ;-) Now I understand why I've seen some guides run up this with no pro, to set their top-ropes.

By Grace C
From: Claremont, CA
Feb 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This was my first 5.7 lead at J Tree and it served that purpose well. Very straightforwards, good rest spots, and great gear.

By Brandontyrrell
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

this route loves stoppers

By transattic
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 21, 2011

Fun to trad. If you want to avoid getting your rope stuck (or high drag) in the lower crack, you can either 1) attach 2-4' runners to pro or 2) skip pro until the first top-out, but that's if you don't mind taking a 20-foot risk.

Continue rest of climb with pro, while keeping the rope out of the lower crack.

For anchor, use 3 cams and 1 chock. Avoid the loose flat stone wedged between the left and middle rocks.