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The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
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A Walk in the Light T 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 
Aloof Roof T 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 
Comic Book Heros T 
Command Performance T 
Do or Dive T 
Doan's Pills T 
Excellent Adventure T 
Finger Love T 
High Wire T 
Into The Wild T 
Nuclear Crayon T 
Quaker State T 
Raise Hell T 
Shit Hook T 
Stab in the Dark T 
Step and Fetch T 
Wailing Wall T 
World War Z T 
Zombie Woof T 

Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bruce Meneghin, Tom Howard - 1976
Page Views: 5,949
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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An unknown climber leads the beautiful Golden Earr...

Description 

This fine route may remind you of climbing in Tennessee, with its long vertical hand crack. Long, fun and well-protected, but the neophyte 5.7 leader might find it intimidating.

Start in the big corner, or on the flake right of the corner; move up until you can transition to a nice vertical crack system in the left face. Continue up the crack until it ends under a big roof, then make a traverse left and up to end at the left end of the roof.

Location 

Starts at the back end of the Amphitheatre in a big corner. Two-rope rap from fixed gear.

Protection 

Small to medium cams, passive pro. Some big pieces are useful in the starting crack. Build a gear anchor.


Photos of Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Caroline Schaumann climbs crack most excellently.
Caroline Schaumann climbs crack most excellently.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the big roof traverse on Golden Earring.  ...
Nearing the big roof traverse on Golden Earring. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason testing his gear for the first time ever. To...
Jason testing his gear for the first time ever. To...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top of Almost Seven (and several...
The view from the top of Almost Seven (and several...

Comments on Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) Add Comment
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007

Great route! The crack section has some committing moves, but the pro is good and any falls would be clean.
By outdooreric
From: La Mesa, CA
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A fall anywhere in the first 40 feet of the route would not be clean. A couple extra hand sized pieces are useful.
The rappel is 100 feet.
By George Heib
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Felt really good. Difficult sections of the route are about 10 feet below the roof. Traverse can get a little sketch for a 5.7 leader, but it is a solid fun route. There is a spot for a BD #3. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge 3 feet off the ground so no real need to double rope this one. Anchors were replace not too long ago.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Extend your draws because the rope drag can be dramatic with the traverse.
By Emil Briggs
Oct 17, 2013

The traverse can be exciting for the second too.
By smurray47
Apr 30, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Three stars only because it's interesting, not really for the quality of climbing. Crux as mentioned is about 10-30 feet below the roof, where the gear can be tricky if you don't know what to expect. There are options available, but it's classic Moore's finicky gear, and if you happen not to have the right pieces can be scary. Some #2/#3 cams to protect the traverse are useful. Overall definitely worth doing, but not one that will make your day...if you're looking for a warmup or have time for just one last climb, do Wailing Wall instead.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 16, 2016

The gear on the crack is really easy- it is smooth enough to take cams well in a lot of places. The gear in the roof is a pain in the ass, because the climbing is several feet below the placements.
By Matt Westlake
May 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Looking back at this I'm surprised no distinction has been made about the traverse at the top. There are two ways to do it:

1) climb way up under the upper roof and get gear the whole way. This is better protected but is awkward and kind of a pain.

2) head directly left using a good foot rail as soon as you've pulled up from the face through the first roof at the top of the crack. Handholds are sparse and you'll have to go a little further than you like (10 feet?) until you get a sorta dubious small cam, particularly for someone closer to their limit. Still, this is my preferred path as it's not unreasonably difficult and only a couple moves to the gear. After that it's pretty juggy and a really good small cam placement is nearby. This traverse is likely too low to merit climbing up and placing gear in the crack at the base of the big roof overhead as it's probably 10-15 feet above you although I've never actually tried this.

If you take this option be sure to keep followers in mind as the pendulum could be pretty extreme if the gear isn't placed.

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