Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring)
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Bruce Meneghin, Tom Howard - 1976|
|Page Views: ||4,363|
|Submitted By: ||saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
An unknown climber leads the beautiful Golden Earr...
This fine route may remind you of climbing in Tennessee, with its long vertical hand crack. Long, fun and well-protected, but the neophyte 5.7 leader might find it intimidating.
Start in the big corner, or on the flake right of the corner; move up until you can transition to a nice vertical crack system in the left face. Continue up the crack until it ends under a big roof, then make a traverse left and up to end at the left end of the roof.
Starts at the back end of the Amphitheatre in a big corner. Two-rope rap from fixed gear.
Small to medium cams, passive pro. Some big pieces are useful in the starting crack. Build a gear anchor.
|Photos of Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) Slideshow
|Comments on Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring)
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007
Great route! The crack section has some committing moves, but the pro is good and any falls would be clean.
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
A fall anywhere in the first 40 feet of the route would not be clean. A couple extra hand sized pieces are useful.
The rappel is 100 feet.
|By George Heib|
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Felt really good. Difficult sections of the route are about 10 feet below the roof. Traverse can get a little sketch for a 5.7 leader, but it is a solid fun route. There is a spot for a BD #3. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge 3 feet off the ground so no real need to double rope this one. Anchors were replace not too long ago.
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
I lead this after the easy Sentinel Buttress and I thought it was harder than the 5.7 rating. Extend your draws because the rope drag can be dramatic with the traverse. A 60m rope gets you down from the fixed pin anchor.
|By Emil Briggs|
Oct 17, 2013
The traverse can be exciting for the second too.