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 ADVANCED
The Sentinel
Select Route:
Almost Overlooked 
Lost Ledge 
North Ridge 

Almost Overlooked 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Briqan (Brian?) Holcomb & Richard Warren - July 1989
Season: Summer
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Jun 21, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Start of P1 is marked, as well as the location of ...

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Description 

P1: Once above the 15 or 20 foot crack, head mostly up while trending left to below a bulge with a kind of hard-to-see button-head bolt - more like a large boulder. Unlock the rightward moves past the bolt/bulge (5.7), then continue up past the very short evergreen tree, reaching a nice, flat, large-ish belay ledge at about 30+ meters (about 30 feet above the short evergreen tree).

P2: Head up on easy terrain to a bit below the left side of the roof. Follow cracks up and rightward to the approximate middle of the roof. Traverse right (5.7) and then up out from under the roof on thin pro. Continue up to the top.

I think a better finish is as described by kevinnlong: "Instead of cruising upward and to the climber's right, head slightly to the climber's left from the big ledge area. Make your way up to a minor trough with a prominant 10 foot right facing flake. Climb to the climber's right of the flake up good rock and good pro. Finish at the summit to the climber's left of the traditional finish.

This variation is certainly 5.7-5.8 depending on your choices.

According to A. Simmons, DON'T PULL ON THE FLAKE; it may be loose. There is plenty of good climbing 5 feet right of it or to the left of it.
"

We tried the above for P2, going up the minor trough and then stepping right about 5 feet to avoid some loose rock, then up to the summit. It was very good. ... as led by franciscov.


Location 

Start at the base clockwise from Lost Ledge but before reaching the West Face of The Sentinel. The route begins straight up a very clean ~one inch crack that is about 15 or 20 feet tall; see this Photo for the locations of the start and the hard-to-see bolt.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Almost Overlooked Slideshow Add Photo
Almost Overlooked Approximate Route.  The upper section of the route I took shares the finish with Lost Ledges.
BETA PHOTO: Almost Overlooked Approximate Route. The upper se...
Orange shows the finish I completed.  Blue looked to be a possible variation of this.
BETA PHOTO: Orange shows the finish I completed. Blue looked ...
Comments on Almost Overlooked Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Reneau
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

At the base, we tried the 1-inch crack and the face just left of it, ~8 ft right of the log. Perhaps more interesting than the crack with vege to the left, but the right crack ends at a ledge easily reachable from the ground, so didnít add much. We did not find the button-head bolt, but found a piton with a screwgate down left from the short pine tree. Maybe we were left of the bulge, bypassing the crux? Reached the belay ledge at ~35 m. After traversing right below the P2 roof, joined the upper part of Lost Ledge for the finish. Our route seemed like 5.6 or easy 5.7, easier than Lost Ledge.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Sep 26, 2011

Good summary, Steven R. The "bulge" has a bit of contrived feeling to it at first. But I believe the terrain there and for a little bit beyond is interesting. Also, since the write up, I've done the start at the 1-inch crack and agree with you.

By Mike Mills
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I also never did find the button head bolt, but did find the piton with a screwgate quicklink in the location described above. This climb can be done in 1 pitch with a 70m rope but rope drag was a bit of a hassle. A 60 m rope would involve some simul-climbing to complete in 1 pitch.

By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

There is an excellent variation on P2 (or the upper part of a single P1).

Instead of cruising upward and to the climber's right, head slightly to the climber's left from the big ledge area. Make your way up to a minor trough with a prominant 10 foot right facing flake. Climb to the climber's right of the flake up good rock and good pro. Finish at the summit to the climber's left of the traditional finish.

This variation is certainly 5.7-5.8 depending on your choices.

According to A. Simmons, DON'T PULL ON THE FLAKE; it may be loose. There is plenty of good climbing 5 feet right of it or to the left of it.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jul 15, 2012

Revised the description to coincide with the start described in Mike Hill's guide.