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 ADVANCED
(k) The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Nothing S 
Ancylostoma S 
Bookworm T,S 
Bunny Face S 
Captain Xenolith S 
Chain Reaction S 
Cinnamon Slab T 
Cognition  S 
Crossfire S 
Cry Babies S 
Darkness At Noon S 
Easy Reader S 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 
Flat Earth, The S 
Fox In Socks S 
French Connection T,S 
Ginger Snap S 
Go Dog Go S 
Heinous Cling S 
Heinous Cling Start S 
Helium Woman S 
Karate Crack T 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 
Karot Tots T 
Last Waltz S 
Latest Rage S 
Latin Lover S 
Left Slab Crack S 
Lichen It S 
Lycopodophyta T 
Middle Aged Vandal S 
Moondance S 
Moonshine Dihedral T 
Night Flight S 
Powder in the Eyes S 
Rabbit Stew T 
Rattlesnake Chimney T 
Rebirth S 
Right Slab Crack T 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 
Slow Burn T,S 
Sunshine Dihedral T 
Take a Powder S 
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 
Vision S 
Watts Totts S 
Wedding Day S 

Almost Nothing 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jean Marc Troussier, October 1986
Page Views: 967
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The excellent Almost Nothing.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Monument Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This radically neglected face climb was one of the less-famous results of the French Invasion of 1986. Despite perfect rock, interesting moves, & an accessible grade, this route sits totally ignored at the busiest crag at Smith, likely due to the R-rating in the Watts guide. However, it has been recently rebolted, and the R rating is no longer valid.

The route ascends the pretty pink face in the back of the alcove between Watts Totts & To Bolt. Begin by scrambling up ledges immediately left of Latin Lover. There is a bit of lose gravel on these ledges, so use caution. A thin-hand sized piece can be used to protect these moves, but is not necessary. From the ledge head straight up the face on cool knobs & the occasional shallow pocket. Use care approaching the second bolt. The crux comes below the 4th bolt, on a tenuous traverse from left to right.

Almost Nothing gets a lot of shade compared to other Dihedrals routes, making it a good morning option on a warm day.

Location 

In the alcove, immediately right of Take a Powder, and left of the thin off-set seam of Lester Tots.

Protection 

7 bolts(?), 2 BA. The route is really not runout at all by Smith standards, and with the re-bolting is no longer R rated.


Photos of Almost Nothing Slideshow Add Photo
This pic shows the location of the first two bolts...
This pic shows the location of the first two bolts...

Comments on Almost Nothing Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 31, 2009

This is a good route that should receive more traffic. It seems that people have ignored it due to the R-rating. I never felt scared or in danger while climbing this, and I didn;t use a stick clip. I think there is potential to hurt yourself if you fell below the 2nd bolt & your belayer was inattentive, or if you fell while clipping, but I think that's true of most routes.

I think stick clipping the 2nd bolt (or moving the 1st & 2nd bolts higher) would be totally acceptable, and would be a good way to make this more popular.

Anyway, there's (a small amount of) chalk on it now, so get after it!
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 18, 2015

Has there been any further discussion on moving the first bolt higher?
By kent benesch
Mar 18, 2015

This route has seen a recent re-bolt. All new 4 3/4 x 1/2 bolts have been used to replace the 3/4 long 28 year old bolts. Additional bolts have been added so as to no longer have an R rating. The grade has also been confirmed by many that have climbed it since the re-bolt at 5.12a, not 5.11d.
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