Almost Nothing 5.11d PG13
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Jean Marc Troussier, October 1986 |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2009 |
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The excellent Almost Nothing.
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Description This radically neglected face climb was one of the less-famous results of the French Invasion of 1986. Despite perfect rock, interesting moves, & an accessible grade, this route sits totally ignored at the busiest crag at Smith, likely due to the R-rating in the Watts guide. The line is somewhat hampered by old-school bolting and a possible ledge fall getting to the second bolt, so caution (or a stick clip) is advised.
The route ascends the pretty pink face in the back of the alcove between Watts Totts & To Bolt. Begin by scrambling up ledges immediately left of Latin Lover. There is a bit of lose gravel on these ledges, so use caution. A thin-hand sized piece can be used to protect these moves, but is not necessary. From the ledge head straight up the face on cool knobs & the occasional shallow pocket. Use care approaching the second bolt. The crux comes below the 4th bolt, on a tenuous traverse from left to right.
Almost Nothing gets a lot of shade compared to other Dihedrals routes, making it a good morning option on a warm day.
Location In the alcove, immediately right of Take a Powder, and left of the thin off-set seam of Lester Tots.
Protection 5 bolts, 2 BA. The route is really not runout at all by Smith standards. Getting to the 2nd bolt is potentially serious, primarily because the 1st bolt is too low. It is probably possible (& advisable) to haul the stick clip up to the ledge & pre-clip the 2nd bolt. If this is done, the route is no more runout than the 1st pitch of Heinous Cling (which receives non-stop traffic).
This pic shows the location of the first two bolts...
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| Comments on Almost Nothing |
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 31, 2009
| This is a good route that should receive more traffic. It seems that people have ignored it due to the R-rating. I never felt scared or in danger while climbing this, and I didn;t use a stick clip. I think there is potential to hurt yourself if you fell below the 2nd bolt & your belayer was inattentive, or if you fell while clipping, but I think that's true of most routes.
I think stick clipping the 2nd bolt (or moving the 1st & 2nd bolts higher) would be totally acceptable, and would be a good way to make this more popular.
Anyway, there's (a small amount of) chalk on it now, so get after it! |
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