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Cactus Cliff
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Almost French 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rich Aschert, Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 2,567
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 26, 2006
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Description 

This is one of the old school Cactus Cliff lines. After the initial flake warm up; continuous, technical, pumpy, and sometimes balancy moves await you all the way to the anchors. A few of the sequences are hard to read, but persevere and problem solve. It may be closer to 11d/12a for the onsight climber.


Location 

It is located on a prow of rock with the obvious, starting, left-facing flake. The line is immediately right of Legends on the Fall and left of the Risky Business corner and Almost Gothic.


Protection 

10 bolts to anchors. Watch for some loose holds around the right side of the prow.



Photos of Almost French Slideshow Add Photo
Working the bulge.
Working the bulge.
Buster Jesik scoping the upper moves.
Buster Jesik scoping the upper moves.
Last run.
Last run.
Comments on Almost French Add Comment
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By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Even after taking the whip of shame the sequence leading to the loose, chockstone undercling did not present itself. Interested to see of something may have broken off the chossy side of the blunt arete....

By Terence
From: Almont, CO
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I hate split grades. You know what is harder than 11d... I bet you didn't guess it was 12a.

By slim
Administrator
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Fun route with several interesting sections. The new book gives it 12a, which I don't really agree with as it has been considered benchmark for Shelf 11d for a long time. There aren't any hard moves on it, but there aren't many easy ones either.

By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Mar 23, 2014

The crux on this route felt like 12a to me. Maybe I just didn't find the beta.