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Stick clip the first bolt below the ramp, then scramble up the corner and ramp past the start of Full Penetration/ Sinister Dane and around the corner to a big undercling. Get tall or prehang the second draw and clip. Make a huge move up to a pinch, or match the terrible sloper and go to the pinch. A couple of crimps lead up and to the right and a good hold to clip the 3rd bolt from. Move up and left to a jug, then a long move to and off of a crimpy right handed sidepull gets you to more right facing jugs. From here on the climbing is about 5.10 to 5.11- and very fun.
- If you have to match the sloper this could be a very difficult tick.
- Great line and good rock the only flaw is that it is quite cruxy at the start which may not be a bad thing in some peoples minds.
Climbs in and around the black streak at the left margin of the cave.
7 bolts and anchors
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 8, 2008
At 5'6" I was barely able to reach the pinch off the undercling. This will indeed be a very difficult tick if you have to deal with the sloper.
Also the direct start, while kinda chossy is steep with good holds and worth doing. Doesn't make things any more difficult as you can lay down and rest before starting the crux.