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Alloy Madness 
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Unsorted Routes:

Alloy Madness 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: "Eddie Pain" and Ryan Mills
Page Views: 1,500
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Jun 10, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Nearing the end of the difficulties. This may be t...

Description 

Alloy Madness is the fourth bolted route from the left. It is comprised of a short 50' pitch and a longer crux pitch, or a single route. The first pitch is also good just by itself.

Fire up through a bouldery overhang past 2 bolts 5.9 continue over a small lid to the anchors. Belay or continue...

Follow a thin seam 5.9 until the bolts veer right. Traverse right under a small roof with a long reach (10d) leave a long sling, and regain the seam. Climb balancy moves (5.10) up until the angle eases off. Belay at the anchors.

Rap 90' to the mid anchors, or use 2 ropes and go to the ground.


Protection 

17 bolts (including the mid anchor). Nuts or small cams are optional.



Photos of Alloy Madness Slideshow Add Photo
Luke on the "5.9" section above the first belay. This was one of the cruxes for me and felt harder than the official crux.
Luke on the "5.9" section above the first belay. T...
Linking it in one pitch.
Linking it in one pitch.
Luke on the sustained climbing above the official crux, which is a traverse straight right at the bolt below Luke's left foot.
Luke on the sustained climbing above the official ...
Mico Alejandro feelin groovy on the lower section of Alloy Madness.
Mico Alejandro feelin groovy on the lower section ...
When linked as one pitch this is a long pitch for a sport climb. A 70m rope just touches the ground from the anchors. Although the rope runs very straight, it may still be worthwhile belaying at the P1 anchors to reduce the weight of the rope.
When linked as one pitch this is a long pitch for ...
Entering the crux traverse.
Entering the crux traverse.
Comments on Alloy Madness Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 28, 2005

I thought this was really good for a sport climb. So, 3 stars compared with other sport climbs. Long, varied, and sustained. Starting about 10' above the midway anchors, it's hard until just before the top. The first time I tried this I flailed all over but got it clean with a strugggle this time. The crux move right is not the crux for me. There's a trick low 10 way to do that move if you have a decent reach. The climbing below and above that seemed much harder. I placed a yellow Alien soon after regaining the crack on the upper section. The bolts are pretty far apart there. A 70m rope gets you to the ground. A 60m should get you to a ledge from which you can scramble down.

By Mitch Musci
Jun 20, 2008

This is a great climb to do in one pitch (where else in the Estes Valley can you find a route with 17 clips?) This was definitely the most sustained of the 5.10s on the cliff, though the cruxes of all 3 seemed about the same difficulty. The crux traverse may involve the most powerful moves, but I feel was easier to solve than the slab moves above. The route is bolted very well, no need for additional protection. One of those anchor bolts at the top could use a tightening!

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Aug 3, 2008

I climbed this route today, it's a fantastic route, awesome movement on solid rock and it's fairly consistent throughout. A 70m rope should get you back to the ground if you do it in one pitch but just barely and about half the nuts on the bolts were loose, including both anchors, unfortunately I did not have a wrench w/ me... and my fingers aren't that strong.

By Nat T.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 10, 2012

Fantastic route! Did it all in one pitch with a slightly truncated 70m rope (cut down to 67). I was able to rap down to a ledge where I could walk off. The moves get thinner after the crux towards the top. Maybe it was the length and fatigue taking it's toll, but the top felt harder than the moves in the middle.
Awesome route. You must have a 70m rope to do the whole thing in one pitch. I didn't see any spinners either :)