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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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A Moveable Flake T 
Allosaur T 
Auntie Perspirant T 
Blind Mouse T 
Blues Power T 
Clean Freak T 
Crow's Landing T 
Earnest Stemmingway T 
Ernest Extended Way T 
Exterminator, The T 
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Mineral Maze S 
Morning Thunder T 
Odarodle T 
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 
Party Pooper T 
Piece Easy T 
Pork Chop T 
Quo Vadis T 
Ranger Danger T 
Roadside Attraction T,S 
Runsholl Scrunch T 
Shot and Chaser T 
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Something Blue T 
Stepping Stones T 
Super Scooper T 
Territorial Integrity T,TR 
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 
Thunderworld T 
Up the Downclimb T 
Verschneidung T 
Water Line T,S 
Wild Turkey S 
Wingshot T 
Wishbone T,S 

Allosaur 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry Hamilton, Dakers Gowans, 1974.
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin, 4 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 4,055
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Jan 26, 2002

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Brad White mid route.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Allosaur is located near the bottom of the West Ridge in an area called the amphitheatre. To reach the start of the climb hike a short ways up the West Ridge trail just pass the bouldering traverse. From there scramble (4th / lower 5th class) up and right across some slabs to reach an area above the trail. Allosaur starts at a juniper tree at the base of a south-facing wall.

P1: Move up and gradually left toward a fixed pin at 25 ft. or so. From there continue up and left across the face. Pro is runout and small (offset Aliens / RPs). The topo in the Eldo book calls this section .7s, but it may deserve .8s. The first 30 ft. are fairly steep and continous. Ends at the band of purple broken rock. 80 ft.

P2: Up and right into an obvious left leaning corner. Small to midsize cams. 5.8 crux comes at end of corner. Pitch ends at ramp above the corner, and below the next corner. Belay takes medium cams. 40 ft.

P3: Up and right again into left leaning corner / roof. Small cams. 5.9 crux comes near the end of the corner and is well protected. This pitch is only about 40 ft. and ends at the top of the ridge.

Rap rings are located about 10' to the west of the top of the route. Rap about 50 feet to a ledge and another set of rings, then 100 feet (60m rope highly recommended) to end up about 20 feet left of the start of the climb.

Allosaur is fantastic. Just beware the runout first pitch, although the rock is mostly solid and of good quality.


Protection 

Cams up to a number two Camalot. Offset Aliens and RPs useful. Make sure to include small cams.



Photos of Allosaur Slideshow Add Photo
Good fun on Allosaur, photo: Bob Horan.
Good fun on Allosaur, photo: Bob Horan.
Allosaur from across the creek.  Scramble in from the left and climb a 4th-class slot to access the route.  The belay at the end of the first pitch is on a sloping ramp; other options are to belay at the rappel tree on the left, or run the first two pitches together.  Two rappels to get off; a 60m rope is useful for the second rappel.
BETA PHOTO: Allosaur from across the creek. Scramble in from ...
Peter Dillon at the crux step left on the last pitch of Allosaur.
Peter Dillon at the crux step left on the last pit...
Kevin Currigan just setting out on the first pitch.  Photo by Hill Slothower on October 29th 2003.
Kevin Currigan just setting out on the first pitch...
Following the first pitch. <br />Photo: Kevin Presley.
Following the first pitch.
Photo: Kevin Presley.
Kevin Currigan just past the crux on pitch 3.  Photo by Hill Slothower on October 29th 2003.  The second nut is a bomber.
Kevin Currigan just past the crux on pitch 3. Pho...
An unknown climber in the middle of the 5.7 "slab" first pitch of Allosaur. I say slab in quotes, because the first half of this is quite steep. The route continues to the slanting overhang above, left around that (8 or 9) into the left facing, right leaning corner. Most people belay here, combining pitches 1 and 2. Out left below the final overhang with the crux being the last move pulling around onto a low angle slab.
An unknown climber in the middle of the 5.7 "slab"...
Chuck Graves begins the second pitch
Chuck Graves begins the second pitch
The second is approaching the crux of P2. The P3 crux is at the left end of the slanting overhang above the top climber. Thee somewhat runout 5.7 slab of P1 angles slightly left from the tree at the bottom of the photo. Another climber is just right of the tree.
The second is approaching the crux of P2. The P3 c...
The first pitch ...
The first pitch ...
On the first pitch about halfway up.
On the first pitch about halfway up.
Approaching the roof on pitch 2 (done as a 3 pitch climb).  The crux on pitch 3 climbs out to the V notch at the far left of the skyline.
Approaching the roof on pitch 2 (done as a 3 pitch...
Topping out.
Topping out.
Peter Dillon turning the crux roof on the second pitch.
Peter Dillon turning the crux roof on the second p...
Brad White nearly through the crux, Great Route!
Brad White nearly through the crux, Great Route!
Comments on Allosaur Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 15, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

The route is super- you can link the first two pitches easily enough without super long slings. I had 3 two-footers. I ran out the bottom pitch quite a bit though, so perhaps if you are working in a lot of gear you will need more of those. The pro is not so good on the first pitch.

Furthermore, with a 60m rope and lots of slings, I have lead the route in a single pitch. You need a single set of nuts and a single set of cams, but doubles from 1.5-3" might be a good idea, at the most logical top belay would use those as well.

Most recently did the route comfortably in 2 pitches using a 50m rope. I went over the first roof and up above it to belay. The belay is on cams hand-fist. I would recommend taking a #3 Camalot or equiv. for the belay to set it higher than a #2 facilitates. Also, the initial traverse left under the roof will take a #2 or #3- so carry doubles or place before (1.5" cam) and after (small TCU) the hanging flake of the traverse to save your 2-3" pieces for the belay. For the next pitch (crux), the next roof takes great stoppers, tricams or TCUs.

I didn't see any need for offset Aliens or RPs, but then again, maybe I ran out those sections - YMMV.

When rapping on a 50m rope - the second rap ends on a ledge from which you can down-climb with a few 5.4 (?) moves.

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2002

A variation to this route goes up the wall left of pitch 2. It is runout 5.8.

By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Jan 29, 2002

You're right Tony. I guess I got a little carried away with the offset Aliens. I love those things! You definitely do not need them on this route. They are merely useful...

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 13, 2002

I've never found a better place in Eldo to use my off-set aliens!!! Thanx for the beta chris.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 20, 2002

Well described route on WWW.CB...but I would add: the route potentially is more than serious. That peg at 25'is a twisted out, 20+ year old upsidedown placed, soft iron mess. The dubious horizontal pro above and the moves to get to the mansize thank God flake certinly 5.8. Throw in the pull over the chockstone if doing 1st 2 pitches in 1, good 5.9. Pitch 3 has a crusty undercut flake for pro? good rock at crux. Not a 3Star.

By Andrew Klein
Jun 7, 2002

Did Allosaur today, you can combine the [first] 2 pitches no problem. I tried to do the whole route in one pitch with a 60m, which probably can be done, but was gettting some bad drag right before the crux on the "3rd pitch," so I just downclimbed and belayed in the corner. I used a quickdraw on the pin ,no slings, and got a small nut and TCU (clipped to draws) in before the roof. I'd agree that there might be an .8 move about 10-20 above the pin (a WWII army type pin, perhaps). Pro is not great on the first pitch, but there is always good feet and/or handholds. I [could]see where some small offset aliens would be nice on all the pitches. Enjoy!

By Brent Roaten
From: Anchorage, AK
Jan 14, 2003

This is a great route with adequate protection on the first pitch if you are creative. The entire route can easily be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope and carefully placed slings.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

As a person who considers himself pretty darn creative with gear I'd still say that there are potentially injurious run-outs on this route and that one should plan on having some significant lengths between gear, albeit on good holds.

I don't know Brent, nor do I know what he considers OK, so this is a "generic" comment, but I'd be suspicious of anybody's placements if they told me that they put in lots of good gear on this pitch. The placement and the rock both have to be good. That said, perhaps Brent climbed the line a little differently than I or my partners ever have, but most people think it merits at least a 'PG' rating. I was more than fine when I climbed it, but I also lead Territorial Integrity (5.10X) right next to it- which makes that no less run-out just because I was comfortable.

I'm not trying to quibble; I figure a difference of opinion is not always a bad thing- it can sometimes promote caution for those who might be in need of it. If I am wrong and off base, please explain how you protected this pitch so well?

By L. Hamilton
Feb 27, 2003

Why is this "Allosaur"? Well, from the road that looks like a set of gaping jaws you crawl into, on the upper part below the crux. The FA party imagined so, anyway.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jul 14, 2003

Very nice. Climbed this about a week and a half ago and enjoyed every pitch, especially the last. The first pitch is protectable though, as my buddy had adequate pro. I linked the last two pitches together which I would not recommmend because of rope drag. One of the nicest climbs on the West Ridge in my opinion.

By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Sep 24, 2003

Cool climb! I was able to get 8 points of protection on the first pitch (including the pin, which seems solid). Most placements were bomber and consisted of the blue Alien thru the .5 Camalot (purple) with a great #6 Stopper placement and a #3 Camalot near the top of the pitch. P1 seems fairly rated at 5.7 to me. An A-typical Eldo pitch where the holds face the way you want (up). You're mostly climbing on a series of small ledges...

We ran P2 and 3 together. Fun, bouldery climbing with good pro. A solid anchor can be built at the top with #1 thru #3.5 Camalots (or hexes).

By spanky
Feb 17, 2004

I just climbed [Allosaur] for the first time and, although I think it is a great route, I think the seriousness ratings (or lack thereof) for the first, second, and third pitches are fairly questionable.

The first pitch, in my mind, does not merit a serious rating. My partner placed gear at least every ten feet, if not closer, and the dubious, upward-driven pin at twenty feet can be backed up by a bomber piece just a few feet below. The crux section after this pin is only a couple of moves until bomber holds are reached. A few more moves and one can place a trucker cam behind a flake. The rest of the first pitch is awesome face climbing between diagonal shelves, with gear every ten feet or so. I have to agree with other writers when I say that, compared to other [Eldo] pitches of comparable difficulty that have an "s" rating, ie. upper [Grand Giraffe], [The Bulge], [Allosaur's] first pitch is not so serious.

On the other hand, I found the third pitch to be fairly serious unless one is climbing with a rack including nonstandard thin pro. I linked the second and third pitches together, which is fairly easy to do and eliminates the common [Eldo] phenomenon of the forty foot pitch. On the face climbing under the second roof, other than a bomber #3 Camalot down in the corner, my only pro was a #3 BD steel nut in a questionable flare until I reached a good flared jam near the end of the roof. I didn't find possibilities for pro in the seam underneath the roof, although I think a narrow-headed TCU, like an Alien, would go very well in a slot in the middle of the face traverse out the roof. This piece would be approximately the size of a yellow metolius TCU, I believe.

I am unsure of whether someone mentioned there being a fixed pin in the third pitch. If so, it is not in place anymore. I found the third pitch to be quite serious, with 5.9 moves 10-12 feet above a small wire I don't think would have held a long fall, and another 10 feet above a good cam in a low-angled corner that would have acted as a ledge in the event of a fall. Turning the corner of the roof is well-protected, the seriousness of this pitch is in the face traverse below the roof.

I urge anyone who found good pro in this pitch to write in and straighten this out. Perhaps, I was just having a bad day, or was trying to put a square peg in a round hole. Just don't want anyone to have a bad experience on a climb they thought was well-protected that isn't.

By L. Hamilton
Mar 21, 2004

You need Aliens for this climb? A #1 hex worked just fine. :-)

By Warren Teissier
Sep 21, 2004

We finally got to climb this route. What a treat!

I felt that the first pitch was run out but manageable, but I did not lead it.

We linked the second and third pitches with little rope drag, although I made sure I used a long sling to protect the start of the third pitch.

The run out at the beginning of the third pitch gave me some pause but the holds are positive and the rock is good. Great pro is to be found after a few feet.

I had been scared away from this climb for some time due to the S status. Now I am glad we did it.

WT

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2004

I felt the first pitch was somewhat runout, but it didn't seem too bad if you just keep your cool and don't get off route. I backed the pin up with a decent alien about 2 feet above and to the right. Up higher there are some runouts and the easiest line is not so obvious. If you belay on the big ledge off to the left, you almost have to go back down to get back on the (normal) second pitch. If you run pitches 1&2 together the third pitch must be only about 40' long! But perhaps this is the best way to do it.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Warren Teissier says: "The run out at the beginning of the third pitch gave me some pause but the holds are positive and the rock is good. Great pro is to be found after a few feet.."

The start of the third pitch can be protected by a couple of ball nuts in the seam under the roof, before the crack widens to Alien size.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 23, 2004

Can be done in one 60m stretcha

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 26, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I led this today for the first time... in three [separate] pitches. IMO P1 is not [runout] if you have the right gear. Small cams sewed this up for me. It is steeper than I expected, but very enjoyable climbing. As mentioned by others, its a series of narrow ledges with very positive holds. A little runnout near the end of P1, but manageable.

P2 is a bit spicy getting up to the corner under the roof, and takes small/medium cams (#1) and a perfect (#3) camalot under the roof. Turning this roof felt like (8+), reminded me of the Tagger roof I did the day before...but not anywhere near that spicy.

IMO the last 30' are stellar...it is [runout] at the start without ballnuts on your rack. Start by working out left, away from the roof, on nice corners and work back into the roof higher up where a perfect black alien placement will stare you in the face... in a flared crack on the face. Make one more move up and a yellow alien placement up in the seam of the roof is bomber... make one more move and place a blue alien again in the roof seam and send it to the corner, as the crack widens allowing you to sink your fingers in. It doesn't get much better than this... This route has great position and is one of the most fun routes of its grade I've been on in the canyon.

By L. Hamilton
Sep 27, 2004

FWIW, the original (FA) line on pitch 1 went more or less straight up, through the flakey depression in the center of the face (below the pitch 2 corner), instead of starting off right and then diagonalling to the left as marked on Ron Olsen's photo. I vaguely recall it was a bit runout, but on positive holds.

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I went the way Larry describes.. pretty much right up the center, vearing slightly left to the corner of the belay ramp. But not as far left Ron has the dots going in his route photo. Positive holds the whole way...

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2004

I went the same way as Larry and Ernie! This seemed to me the easiest line (plus it is where the chalk seems to lead!). On the climb, it does not seem useful to go anywhere near the tree of the second rappel, since you would have to go right and down a ramp to get back on the route (as shown in the photo). I actually belayed at the right end of the sloping ramp, 40' directly below the roof on p2 (not a very comfortable belay stance).

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

The original beta photo I submitted shows an incorrect line on the first pitch; check the revised photo to see if it's more accurate.

The belay at the end of the first pitch is problematic; either belay from a poor stance on the ramp, or go all the way left to the rappel tree to a better stance. Belaying from the tree adds an exciting traverse to the start of the second pitch.

Perhaps it's better to run the first two pitches together.

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Yes, that's the exact line I took Ron...spot on.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

A note on logistics: I like to gear up at a spur on the West Ridge trail below some trees and take nothing extra to the base of the climb. The approach has a 4th-class slot at the end, and I don't like to down-climb the slot with a pack after the climb. If you have a 60m rope, the second rappel drops you below the slot, and from there it's an easy scramble back to your pack.

By Michael Amato
Jan 20, 2005

The second rap with a 60m uses just about all of the rope so, as always, use caution. Great route!

By Chris Weber
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2005

I disagree with the earlier comment on the last pitch's gear options...I did this yesterday and was able to find excellent TCU and camalot placements the whole way. Fun route--combine with Morning Thunder for a great 3 pitch time.

By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Oct 17, 2005

Great route! Only thing I would add is to run the 1st two pitches together. I belayed from the ledge and then got such bad rope drag from p2 I had to split it up into 3. The belay on the 2nd pitch is great so use it. I bet the whole route could be done in one long 70 meter pitch as well.

By Lance Lewallen
From: Louisville CO
Mar 18, 2010

Engaging route. A good mixture of crack climbing and face climbing. The lower pitch is classic eldo 5.7 runout, but has good gear behind the juggy flakes. Be aware of the chossy nature in areas. The upper pitch has nice cracks and corners for bomber gear.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 10, 2010

Tim ran this whole route together with a 60m and prodigious use of slings. Great pitch.

By Keith Earley
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 15, 2013

I for one found the second pitch to be harder than the third. P3 felt like 5.8 and P2 felt like 5.9. Also seconding a PG-13 rating on the first pitch. Even though upside-down cam placements behind flakes aren't the most confidence-inspiring pieces of pro, I think they would have held a fall.