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East Face
Routes Sorted
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"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 
Alligator Soup S 
Anarchy S 
Antline T 
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 
Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
Inner Sanctum T,TR 
New Era T 
New Generation T,S 
Sandy Beaches T 
Skyline Pig S 

Alligator Soup 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P1 Leonard Coyne, Ed Russell, 9/77, P2 Ric and Cindy Gieman, 1991
Page Views: 4,733
Submitted By: Chamo Breslin on Jun 10, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Carl Brockhoff high on Alligator Soup.

Seasonal Closures - all are lifted - 10/25/14 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This quality route ascends the crisp, solid stone on the SE face of Kindergarten Rock by way of positive edges, fun reaches, and a crux, semi-thin sidepull.

To find the start, hike up the climber's trail across the road from the Snake Pit, as per New Era. As you hoof it up, look at the cliff ahead of you and find the sloping ramp that angles up and left with a patch of green lichen on it, just left of New Era's obvious dihedral. Or, get to the base of New Era, admire the 1st steep line of bolts climber's left (Diesel to Dust, .11a), and take three steps further left to the 2nd line. This is your climb.

Two starts are possible: gain the first hanger by using the ramp to traverse left and slightly up. This has positive hands but slim feet. Or, move straight up the thing layback, gain the ramp with your feet, and traverse left with good feet and ok hands to clip the second bolt - both work fine. From here, move up past two bolts to your well-protected crux. Once through, it's beautiful black and gold sandstone (limestone strata is rumored) with fun movement to the anchor. 7 or 8 quickdraws should do it.

Stewart Green's guide lists the 2nd pitch as 5.11d with two technical roofs and good rock. He also lists an .11a variation to the 1st pitch by moving right at the third bolt to an old pin, then moving back to the original line.

Protection 

Only quickdraws needed; 2-bolt anchor with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch. Not sure what's on top of the 2nd?


Photos of Alligator Soup Slideshow Add Photo
David Hall starting up the long run to the first b...
David Hall starting up the long run to the first b...

Comments on Alligator Soup Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 31, 2014
By Chamo Breslin
Jun 18, 2004

Rookie mistake: pitch one is not rated 15.9. Should be p1, 5.9/p2, 5.11d. Sorry about that.
By kevin jenkins
Sep 4, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I had a blast on this route. I took a fairly in-experienced climber on this, and he was pushed and pumped. There is a bit of a runout on the first pitch (what G of G route doesn't?), so I wouldn't recommend this a a first lead, but with a little ingenuity and some spare webbing, you too can have a great day at the Garden. Climb safe, y'all.
By Bill Parmenter
Jan 1, 2005

WARNING! As of today someone had removed the hangers from the anchors at the top of pitch two.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 28, 2005

Good stone over in this area - this route is no exception. Bad karma for whoever pilfered the hangers.... Probably best to replace them and return to karma neutral.
By Stewart M. Green
Sep 19, 2005

Alligator Soup now has new anchors courtesy of Climbing Magazine and Petzl. The two old coldshuts on 3/8" bolts are wearing through due to top-ropers not using draws on the anchors. Now they're safe!
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 29, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun first pitch! If you use the anchors to rappel off of New Era, toprope it before you pull the rope.
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Dec 13, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

You can reach Diesel and Dust Anchors without too much trouble from the Alligator Soup anchors if you are in to practicing Diesel on TR.
By DeJay
From: Englewood, CO
May 31, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

No need to do traverse to clip to the first bolt. It was relocated recently.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Jul 23, 2013

Such a Garden Classic. Thanks for the new bolts on P1, to whoever put em in! It's much appreciated.

P2: Best/maybe only roofs in the Garden (other than Grapefruit). I did it for the first time today and had a blast. The first roof is well protected after working the thin face up to it. The second roof isn't nearly as bad, but don't underestimate it. After that, finish off on crimpy face climbing 2 more bolts to the anchor! Enjoy!
By jmeizis
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 30, 2014

The bolt line has been altered and a new bolt added. Not sure when or by who, but the person probably could of saved money by getting rid of the first, weird clip and getting people to stick clip the second. Guess it's sort of better.
New bolts on Alligator Soup.
New bolts on Alligator Soup.
By Jeff Hofheins 1
From: Logan, Utah
Aug 31, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I climbed here yesterday and I found the new bolt line to be very natural and just perfect. Loved this climb.