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The Overlook
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Satisfaction Guaranteed 
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Sparky And The Firedog 
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Syzygy 
Trinity Arete 
Trinity Roofs 
Wager Crack 
Wanderlust 

Alley Oop 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Baxter et al., early 70's
Season: Anytime it's sunny!
Page Views: 1,107
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 22, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Starts on the wavy crack.
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Alley Oop is one of the better moderate routes at the Overlook. It's just challenging enough to give a beginning leader some interesting moments, but well protected and offers some cool moves. Center right of the wall, look for a wavy crack running up a flat wall that forms the right side of a big corner. Climb up the wavy crack, skirt around a protruding boulder, then continue up. The crux comes where the corner squeezes down to a tight 1/4" crack leading to a horizontal ledge. Get a good nut in a layback your way onto the ledge (a belly flop might be in order if it saves you a fall). Then go to the right end of the ledge and up to the top.


Protection 

Nuts, cams from 1/2" up to #2 Camalot size



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By David Arthur Sampson
Sep 25, 2006

I found Alley Ooop to be awkward in places, and difficult to protect in two critical areas. There were a few fun moves, and the direct finish to the climb (off the upper ledge - ~ 5.9) was fun. But, IMHO, there are better moderate climbs at the Overlook.

By Larry Coats
Oct 28, 2007

First ascent Scott Baxter et al., early 70's.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Felt really hard for 5.7, IMO. Definately way harder than Mint Jam. I did the direct finish above but that seemed no harder than the rest of the route. I'm going with 5.8 for the whole thing.

By J. Hickok
Sep 18, 2012

Those without a guidebook looking for beta here should know that this starts at the base of Amateur Hour. So hopefully you know where that is too - it's tucked up in a nook/corner to the left of the Mourning's Morning area.