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 ADVANCED
Echo Cove - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Allergy T 
Ass of Dog T 
Atari T 
Axe of Dog T 
Bacon Flake T,TR 
Bonzo Dog Band T 
C.S. Special T 
Chips Ahoy T 
F.U.N. TR 
Fear of Dogs T 
Fear of God T 
Flake and Bake T 
Gordon-Bartlett T 
Horny Corner T 
J.B.'s Variation TR 
Out on a Limb T 
Pocket Veto T 
Poodle Skirt T 
Possessed by Elvis T 
R.M.L. T 
Riddler, The T 
Sabretooth T 
Sicker than Jezouin T 
Sitting Here in Limbo T 
Statute of Limbitations TR 
TM's Terror T 
Unknown T 

Allergy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2002

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Description 

This route lies at the left-most margin of the right-most (east) solid buttress of the South Face of the Echo Cove Rocks. It is approached via a few slab moves to a small ledge, and begins just left of Sitting Here In Limbo and Out On A Limb. This is a wide and scaley crack.Climb this curving line using jams and chimney/OW technique where necessary, as the rock quality does not inspire one to step delicately on the available rock. Climb to the crux near the top of the buttress. And pull up and over with gear at your feet (no good pro is to be had above while at the crux)

The belay up top is well set with large cams and/or hexes and small tricams as for the previosuly mentiened nearby climbs. There are other possibilities too.

To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and the back West toward the base.

Protection 

Cams and/or hexes including at least one wide piece and a few stoppers.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 13, 2003

This is the route Allergy (5.7), which takes the wide crack past the right side of the wedged block. The route Asthma (5.4) shares the same start and cuts left at the wedged block (see page 12 in the Bartlett Guide).