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Allenspur

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7-11 Crag 
Boundry Crag 
Main Crag 

Allenspur 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,500'
Location: 45.5951, -110.5601 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,300
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Hermes Lynn on May 10, 2009
Forecast:
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
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Ryan sending in mid March 2011.
New access to Allenspur climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sunny, southwest facing, limestone, sport climbing. Excellent views of Paradise Valley. The rock varies from excellent black dolomite to the lighter variety which still can be very good. Climbing is possible year round here but probably best in the spring and fall. Most of the routes are 5.9-5.11 with some newer routes currently being established on the larger part of the Main Crag.

Access: Allen Spur access is fragile and much effort has gone into keeping the climbing open. Be careful, clean, and courteous. Stick to established trails and show respect for the land owners and their property. Leave no trace.


Getting There 

5 miles south of Livingston on US 89, left on East river road and park at the fishing access. Use the new trail, now much shorter, that follows East river road and goes directly up to the boundary crag.

A few things to remember about accessing the crags:

-Park at the Carterís Bridge fishing access, not on East River Road where the trail turns up towards the crag.
-From the Carter Bridge Fishing Access Site, walk east and south down East River Road for 250 yards. Turn east and follow the climbers trail up to the base of Boundry Crag.
-Do not trespass onto any other portion of the private property.
-The trail is for foot traffic only. No motorized vehicles or bikes.
-Look for the well marked trails signs and cairns.

The new trail access is shorter than the older trail. Please abide by these guidelines!


Climbing Season


34 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',15],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Allenspur:
Climbing Club Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Crag
Blood and Bolts   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Crag
Josh Was Grounded   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Boundry Crag
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   7-11 Crag
French Connection   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   7-11 Crag
Sully's Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   Main Crag
One Bullet to Many   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 65'   7-11 Crag
Spur Corner   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   7-11 Crag
Flake Fest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   7-11 Crag
Rancho Deluxe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   7-11 Crag
Browse More Classics in Allenspur

Featured Route For Allenspur
Shady Business

Shady Business 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  MT : Paradise Valley : ... : Main Crag
The route climbs just left of the prow on the shady side of the wall. The climb is unique and has a great position. There are good rests between the bouldery cruxes....[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Allenspur Slideshow Add Photo
Access Map  <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.montanaclimbers.org' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.montanaclimbers.org</a>
BETA PHOTO: Access Map

www.montanaclimbers.org
Paradise Valley
Paradise Valley
Comments on Allenspur Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Beard
From: Superior, AZ
Jul 8, 2009

I made a couple trips while visiting Gardiner. This area has maybe 40 or so bolted routes, mostly 1 pitch. Very fun limestone. Buy the Southwestern climbing guide book. Park at the fishing access and follow the signs along the east river road for access.

By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 30, 2012

the owner doesn't like dogs, leave yours at home if you want to continue to climb here.

By Dan Bachen
Jul 21, 2012

Climbing with dogs at this area seems a little confusing, what I have figured out so far (and I may be wrong so please correct me) is that the new shorter access is not open to dogs and is extensively signed as such. Well behaved dogs are allowed on the older and longer trail through the easement. So if you want to bring dogs to the crag you have to suck it up and use the longer access trail.

By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 22, 2012

To be honest people with dogs simply shouldn't climb at this crag if they refuse to leave their dogs at home. The climbing is within feet of the owners land and he is very against having dogs on his land. You could use the old access...or you could do all of the climbing community a favor and make sure there is no issue with dogs at this crag by leaving them at home. There are MANY other places that dogs are allowed to hang out at the crag in the area so if MUST bring your dog everywhere go to those areas. Don't ruin it for the rest of us that would like to see Allenspur remain open for the foreseeable future.

By Eric Schwartz
From: Big Sky, MT
Jun 30, 2013

To be honest, this whole area is some fun climbing, but the access issues are kind of ridiculous. If some land owner is going to be this much of a pain that I can go but my dog can't, or the guide book says to go the old way but maybe they are feeling nice on alternate thursdays and letting us go the short way. What a mess. I guess I will just have to steer clear until somebody who is sane owns the land.

By Arlene crump
Oct 18, 2013

I've read all the comments about the dogs at Allenspur. We are the landowners of the short access and welcome your dogs if you want to bring them. We just ask that you use the directed route off East River Road and try not to cross our pasture at access the trail. Be mindful and please park at Carter's Bridge. Thanks! Enjoy!