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Allenspur

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7-11 Crag 
Boundry Crag 
Main Crag 

Allenspur  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,500'
Location: 45.5951, -110.5601 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,032
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hermes Lynn on May 10, 2009
Forecast:
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Ryan sending in mid March 2011.

New access to Allenspur climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sunny, southwest facing, limestone, sport climbing. Excellent views of Paradise Valley. The rock varies from excellent black dolomite to the lighter variety which still can be very good. Climbing is possible year round here but probably best in the spring and fall. Most of the routes are 5.9-5.11 with some newer routes currently being established on the larger part of the Main Crag.

Access: Allen Spur access is fragile and much effort has gone into keeping the climbing open. Be careful, clean, and courteous. Stick to established trails and show respect for the land owners and their property. Leave no trace.

Getting There 

5 miles south of Livingston on US 89, left on East river road and park at the fishing access. Use the new trail, now much shorter, that follows East river road and goes directly up to the boundary crag.

A few things to remember about accessing the crags:

-Park at the Carterís Bridge fishing access, not on East River Road where the trail turns up towards the crag.
-From the Carter Bridge Fishing Access Site, walk east and south down East River Road for 250 yards. Turn east and follow the climbers trail up to the base of Boundry Crag.
-Do not trespass onto any other portion of the private property.
-The trail is for foot traffic only. No motorized vehicles or bikes.
-Look for the well marked trails signs and cairns.

The new trail access is shorter than the older trail. Please abide by these guidelines!

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

35 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',15],['5.11',7],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Allenspur:
Climbing Club Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Crag
Blood and Bolts   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Crag
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   7-11 Crag
Todos Santos   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Main Crag
Josh Was Grounded   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Boundry Crag
French Connection   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   7-11 Crag
Sully's Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   Main Crag
Dam in the Rain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   7-11 Crag
Commie Bastards   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   7-11 Crag
One Bullet to Many   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 65'   7-11 Crag
Flake Fest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   7-11 Crag
Spur Corner   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   7-11 Crag
Rancho Deluxe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   7-11 Crag
Browse More Classics in Allenspur

Featured Route For Allenspur
1 - French Connection 5.10a <br />2 - Flake Fest 5.10b

Flake Fest 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  MT : Paradise Valley : ... : 7-11 Crag
A fantastic route that goes up one of the most classic flakes and splitters out at Allenspur. All bolted due to the flakes somewhat delicate nature. No individual move is that difficult but it is one of the more sustained routes out here. Go send it! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Allenspur Slideshow Add Photo
Access Map  <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.montanaclimbers.org' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >montanaclimbers.org</a>
BETA PHOTO: Access Map montanaclimbers.org
Paradise Valley
Paradise Valley

Comments on Allenspur Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tate Shepherd
Sep 14, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
My girlfriend was out there yesterday (9/13)and lost an antique diamond ring somewhere around the boundary wall area. The ring is white gold with some intricate metalwork and two small rubies on either side. If found please call 612-812-0079. It would be greatly appreciated as she's really missing it. Thanks so much.
By Ben Beard
From: Superior, AZ
Jul 8, 2009
I made a couple trips while visiting Gardiner. This area has maybe 40 or so bolted routes, mostly 1 pitch. Very fun limestone. Buy the Southwestern climbing guide book. Park at the fishing access and follow the signs along the east river road for access.
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 30, 2012
the owner doesn't like dogs, leave yours at home if you want to continue to climb here.
By Dan Bachen
Jul 21, 2012
Climbing with dogs at this area seems a little confusing, what I have figured out so far (and I may be wrong so please correct me) is that the new shorter access is not open to dogs and is extensively signed as such. Well behaved dogs are allowed on the older and longer trail through the easement. So if you want to bring dogs to the crag you have to suck it up and use the longer access trail.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 22, 2012
To be honest people with dogs simply shouldn't climb at this crag if they refuse to leave their dogs at home. The climbing is within feet of the owners land and he is very against having dogs on his land. You could use the old access...or you could do all of the climbing community a favor and make sure there is no issue with dogs at this crag by leaving them at home. There are MANY other places that dogs are allowed to hang out at the crag in the area so if MUST bring your dog everywhere go to those areas. Don't ruin it for the rest of us that would like to see Allenspur remain open for the foreseeable future.
By Eric Schwartz
From: Big Sky, MT
Jun 30, 2013
To be honest, this whole area is some fun climbing, but the access issues are kind of ridiculous. If some land owner is going to be this much of a pain that I can go but my dog can't, or the guide book says to go the old way but maybe they are feeling nice on alternate thursdays and letting us go the short way. What a mess. I guess I will just have to steer clear until somebody who is sane owns the land.
By Arlene crump
Oct 18, 2013
I've read all the comments about the dogs at Allenspur. We are the landowners of the short access and welcome your dogs if you want to bring them. We just ask that you use the directed route off East River Road and try not to cross our pasture at access the trail. Be mindful and please park at Carter's Bridge. Thanks! Enjoy!
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Aug 24, 2014
I understand that the access/ownership issues continue on the north end of the main crag -- any updates on the legality of climbing Beach Ball, The Prow, etc.?

Has Beach Ball seen its FFA yet?
By Hermes Lynn
From: Sheridan, WY
Aug 25, 2014
Yes the beach ball was freed by Whit Magro and myself a number of years ago, probably 12c\d. There is another line we bolted there that is an open project in the mid 13 range. Not sure about access, technically the routes are on private land.
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Aug 27, 2014
Thanks for the quick response, Hermes.

And congrats on ticking that long-standing project.