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Allamuchy State Park

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Cake Wall 
East Cliff 
Main Wall and Right Wall 
Practice Wall 
Tic Tac Toe Wall 
Upper Lead Wall 

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Allamuchy State Park 


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Location: 40.9199, -74.7493 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Joseph D'Agostino on Mar 2, 2009
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Allamuchy Mountain, NJ

Description 

Crystalline granite cliffs in Sussex County, 10 minutes from I-80. Contains excellent slab, crack and face climbing, with 45 routes ranging from 5.2 to 5.11d.

Approximately 1 hour from most of Northern New Jersey and New York City, a great location for a relaxful day of toproping and short leads.

Hidden off the road, Allamuchy is nice and shady on a hot summer day. EMS Climbing School as well as other services uses the main wall on weekends during the summer. The instructors are friendly, but there are some shorter gems left of the main wall in the woods.

Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Long slings or static rope may be useful for top ropes.

Guidebook: Falcon Guide: Rock Climbing New Jersey by Paul Nick and Neil J.A. Sloane. All route descriptions taken from here. Don't be cheap, buy the book. Topos are great and include good photos, and lots of bouldering areas in the Northern NJ area as well as Central Park in NYC.


Getting There 

From Interstate 80, take exit 25 Stanhope/Newton. Follow 206 North to the second light, turn left on county 604. Drive 1.7 miles, park across from wooden fence in one of 2 parking areas on right. Hike up trail into the woods, cliffs are less then 5 minutes from the road. (Be sure to fill out the Park climbing waivers at the trail-head leading to the main cliff.)


Climbing Season


49 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',10],['5.8',5],['5.9',8],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Allamuchy State Park:
5.7 (Main Wall, Right)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Main Wall and Right Wall
Hourglass   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, TR, 60'   Main Wall and Right Wall
A Year in the Life, Variation 2, Left Start   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 60'   Main Wall and Right Wall
Browse More Classics in Allamuchy State Park

Featured Route For Allamuchy State Park
Joey top-roping 'A Year in the Life' (Left Start) 5.10d

A Year in the Life, Variation 2, Left Start 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  NJ : Allamuchy State Park : Main Wall and Right Wall
Begin several feet left of the direct start, then climb delicately up and right on small holds. After reaching first bolt or bolt hole, proceed up. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NJ

Photos of Allamuchy State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of Tic Tac Toe Wall, left facing crack visible.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Tic Tac Toe Wall, left facing crack v...
Colin on the approach to the 'Main Wall' this past Winter.
Colin on the approach to the 'Main Wall' this past...
Climbing left crack of Tic Tac Toe Wall
Climbing left crack of Tic Tac Toe Wall
Comments on Allamuchy State Park Add Comment
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By NEGuiding
From: Matawan, NJ
Jun 9, 2009

This past weekend (June '09) I noticed a lot of the trees that people sling webbing around for top-roping are rotted pretty bad so bring a small rack and anchor up higher in some vertical cracks directly above 'A Year in the Life' or further down above 'Hourglass' in a 45 degree crack (lay on slab for gear placements).

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
May 7, 2010

i still don't get why all you guides that make money bringing clients here don't throw in a few bucks and install fixed bolted anchors. destroying those trees is the sort of thing that land managers site when they close down access and many folks climbing here are top ropers that own a rope, a few biners, and a bunch of slings so gear anchors are simply not going to happen...

p.s. i'd do it myself but i moved... allamuchy's special: y'all should put some work into preserving it...

By NEGuiding
From: Matawan, NJ
Oct 25, 2010

Jon, the park system removed some bolts from there years ago. Bolting is dangerous in a place like that for liability purposes. No matter who installs them the park is responsible. I've been top-roping off of some of the same trees for years and they have yet to show any type of damage. One of our assistant guides is a Dendrologist and he's looked at some of those trees and says the same thing, no damage. Thanks for the input, I do agree though bolts shoud be placed on some walls.

By Dave Pfurr
Sep 23, 2011

Bolting is a touchy subject in NJ--the land of over-regulation. Anyone visiting Allamuchy will find some bolts that were placed there way back when. But NJ Parks forbid the installation of fixed anchors. (Obviously not a problem in PA.) Some folks did install a two-bolt anchor at Allamuchy a few years ago. It lasted a week or two and was most-likely chopped by other climbers with an anti-bolting agenda. If you travel around you will find many other states that provide fixed anchors for the climbing community--but NJ can't pull it off.