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Juniper Wall
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All the Right Moves 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: KC Baum
Season: Summer
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 16, 2009
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Description 

A little overhyped in the guidebook but still definitely worth doing. A good variety of sizes make this a fun, intersting line. The crux is a little spooky since its protected by blue TCUs and the rock isn't Unaweep's finest. I don't think it warrants a PG rating, though....

The chimney leads to great hands, then a fingery-face section moves left to a right-facing corner up high. No fixed anchor.


Location 

This will be an obvious line on the far left side of the Wall. Look for a wide chimney-ish start left of a big corner. Walk off left.


Protection 

Small to fists. Grey/blue/yellow TCUs sizes are crucial. No anchor.

Per rob pizem: as of 8/17/11, this route has anchors now.



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By rob pizem
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This route has anchors now too. Was psyched to see that someone equipped all these routes. Great route with rests and great gear and the traverse at the end is cool.