Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Central Wall
Select Route:
Alice in Banana Land 
All the Nasties 
Banana Patch 
Bitchin Chimney 
Brain Dead 
Cowboyography 
Divine Wind / All the Nasties 
Hueco Syndrome 
Lunacy 
Lunar Abstract 
Malice In Bucketland 
Sea of Holes 
Uriah's Heap 
Walking on the Moon 
Window Pain 

All the Nasties 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 610
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Some areas require a guide.

Description 

the first pitch is fairly bold, with scant bolts and some loose rock. Climb past the first bolt (~25ft high) to a thin crack which can be protected with small wires. Then head right past 2 bolts before heading left underneath a small bulge to the last bolt. Belay on a nice ledge with a solid two-bolt anchor (100' to ground).

Pitch 2 is easier, has better rock and excellent protection. Gear required for the belay at a huge ledge. A short 3rd pitch up cracks leads to the top.


Location 

Starts just behind the Split boulder. Walk-off to the north or find rap-anchors for another route.


Protection 

1st pitch, 4 bolts and a few small wires in the shallow cack. 2nd pitch requires wires and small camming units, but is well protected.



Comments on All the Nasties Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

First pitch is a test piece of thin edge climbing. I have climbed the first pitch more than ten times but never will lead it. A little risky for me. Excellent. It takes a little route finding to keep pitch one to 5.9+. The second pitch is more 8+. One bolt up high and one right off the belay ledge. Many good trad placements but some hard to see. A 60m rope lets you finish way up on belay ledge so you can start the third pitch easier. A 50m rope means you must move belay for pitch three. The third pitch is a choice of two nice cracks that go at 5.7. Third pitch is 80 feet.