All the Nasties
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|Some areas require a guide.|
the first pitch is fairly bold, with scant bolts and some loose rock. Climb past the first bolt (~25ft high) to a thin crack which can be protected with small wires. Then head right past 2 bolts before heading left underneath a small bulge to the last bolt. Belay on a nice ledge with a solid two-bolt anchor (100' to ground).
Pitch 2 is easier, has better rock and excellent protection. Gear required for the belay at a huge ledge. A short 3rd pitch up cracks leads to the top.
Starts just behind the Split boulder. Walk-off to the north or find rap-anchors for another route.
1st pitch, 4 bolts and a few small wires in the shallow cack. 2nd pitch requires wires and small camming units, but is well protected.
By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
First pitch is a test piece of thin edge climbing. I have climbed the first pitch more than ten times but never will lead it. A little risky for me. Excellent. It takes a little route finding to keep pitch one to 5.9+. The second pitch is more 8+. One bolt up high and one right off the belay ledge. Many good trad placements but some hard to see. A 60m rope lets you finish way up on belay ledge so you can start the third pitch easier. A 50m rope means you must move belay for pitch three. The third pitch is a choice of two nice cracks that go at 5.7. Third pitch is 80 feet.