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Eagle Bluff
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All seriousness aside  S 
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All seriousness aside  

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Parrot and Rob Adair
Page Views: 1,100
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Feb 28, 2009

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Pulling the roof

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Description 

Pull through a large roof at the very base of the cliff. From here contine up the black face past several bolts (crux).

Location 

This route starts at the very base of the cliff, 20 feet left of the overhangs right end.

Protection 

Several Bolts and a hidden pin out right just above the roof.


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By marsenault
From: Randolph, Maine
Apr 17, 2015

Fun route, awesome line! Well-protected climbing. The roof is burly but the holds are all there, some good footwork on hidden holds under the lip gets you through, solid 10d IMO. I suggest using a long runner or double draw on the 2nd bolt under the roof to reduce drag. After the roof, it isn't over yet. Delicate, thoughtful, and sustained crimpy/crystal-pinching 10c/d climbing past bolts, a pin, and a black metolius master cam placement (green C4 would work too) in a horizontal goes straight up the wall. I stopped at the anchors on a small ledge at the "toilet bowl" and rapped with a 60m but climb keeps going past several more bolts towards the top of the cliff (appears to ease off above this ledge). Get on this one!
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