All in Moderation
||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 3 pitches, 550', Grade II
|Original: ||M4+ Mod. Snow [details]|
|FA: ||Pete Tapley & Chris Awe. 2004|
|Season: ||Fall and possibly better in the spring|
|Page Views: ||871|
|Submitted By: ||jon jugenheimer on Nov 27, 2012 with updates
from Eli B.|
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BETA PHOTO: Route in red.
The three pitch route starts by climbing the 4th of July couloir to about 1/3 height just above the first set of black rocks. Gain the obvious left leaning gully filled with snow and possibly ice. The crux is 35 meters up the gully where a vertical step is found. Climb another 30 meters of easier terrain and belay at a tree. The second pitch climbs the snow and rock couloir finishing with two steps at 50 meters to set the 2ed belay. Climb the broken rocks and snow for another 40 meters to the summit.
Descent: Rappel or scramble down the west facing couloir to then access 4th of July Couloir. Lots of loose rock. Use cation.
The route is just right of the left sykline of the peak as viewed from below. The second pitch will be an obvious landmark to see from the approch.
Standard alpine rack to #3 BD. Stubbies if ice is present. Pins were not needed.