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2. Duet Area etc
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All Day Sucker T 
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All Day Sucker 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,109
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009

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Scanned photo of Craig on the crack face section.

Description 

At the right of the south-facing corner move up until on top of staircase of holds (5-6 but very awkward boulder problem) move up (5-8) or across (easier) left into the large corner. Exhilarating moves and then there is a rest in the corner. Go up the corner moderate(5-5) and move onto the outside of it to traverse right 10ft on the wall to find pin protection in a crack. Continue up crack (harder, 5-7) or move back left to climb up the outside of the corner until able to go right again (or go back left into the corner, easier), back to the crack and (to follow this crack (5-7) 20+ft sustained it will end at a horizontal crack to traverse right and the end of traverse was protected by large lost arrow but I removed it and its complicated) move right from crack to Quartet's left side terraced garden. Belay with small angle and gear can be made here. Higher up is the rappel station but it is necessary to be at this lower place to protect the second from a large pendulum swing.
The rock on this pitch doesn't get any better than this on Cannon. Very airy and exposed for a base pitch climb. I utilized both belays because why not.

Location 

Left of the Quartet dike. Just to right of Fugue start is a steep inclining staircase of 12+ft of boulder moves (5-6). Look for the bad bolt placement (I intend on sawing it off and replacing it and there are 2 soft iron shallow placement pins and 1 stuck stopper in a small pocket crack in the rock wall. You'd have to be blind to not see all this junk. It should be cleaned up, someday.

Protection 

Trad rack, small to medium stoppers and medium hexes, friends or tri-cams. Before the crux is a soft iron hardly in pin above a ridiculously badly placed bolt (the hole's deep but it got stuck during placement) and a descent wire nut in a pocket within reach. It looks like inexperienced climber's crap and that sucks, back up the stopper with another one and it'll be truck. Pin rappel anchor.


Photos of All Day Sucker Slideshow Add Photo
The corner and higher up right some of the crack f...
The corner and higher up right some of the crack f...
Scanned photo. Craig near the standard finish.
Scanned photo. Craig near the standard finish.
Scanned photo of Craig Young.
Scanned photo of Craig Young.
The important half of the line up the pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The important half of the line up the pitch.

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