All Chalk And No Action 5.12a
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Peter on All Chalk and No Action
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Description Awewsome route!!! It is located just to the left of where touch up and Gordon's Hangover starts. Some people start in the actual corner of Gordons and others start on the face. I did it starting on the face and thought it is much more classic that way. The Landing is good if you blow before the first bolt and the moves are really cool. After the third bolt is clipped it eases up a lot, although it still can be pumpy(or it least it was for me), at the top. For only a 60ft route it gets some good exposure. All in all well worth the hike! Good luck!
Protection 5 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor. (Same as Touch Up.)
Peter finishing up the route.
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pulling the cruxy start
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last move to the third bolt, after that it is all ...
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| Comments on All Chalk And No Action |
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By ASENDR
Jan 8, 2006
rating: 5.12a
| About 90% of the people i've seen climb this thing start out of the corner. I think it's harder that way. Incedentally, the jug did not break off, it was pulled off by a local hardman. I still think ALL CHALK is still 12a. |
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.12a
| face climbing in little cottonwood doesn't get any better than this. 5 starz |
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Apr 22, 2007
| Are you new to climbing in LCC?
Oh, and I use the corner. |
By sgreen
From: salt lake city, ut
Jun 6, 2007
| pulled a huge piece of rock of this route yesterday. It is above the crux so it won't change the rating I believe. It is up by the third bolt, maybe a little above it, still some pretty suspect rock up there. Makes me wonder about the quality of the rock that some of those older bolts are in. |
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 27, 2007
rating: 5.12a
| Woohoo, my first .12. Great vertical climbing. The bolts are kind of manky for such a classic route. People with more experience than me feel it's right on at .12a. By the time you clip the 3rd bolt, the hardest part is over, the missing rock hasn't changed that. I remember reading Performance Rock Climbing and seeing a photo of someone climbing it in there, it was listed as .11d! |
By shakey
Mar 27, 2008
| boulder problem (crimpy but straight forward) to much easier climbing... most of boulder problem avoided by starting in dihedral, easier start, more akward but easily protected by bolt |
By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008
| Beautiful line! Well worth the hike up. |
By Erik S. Gillis
Mar 19, 2009
| My first 5.12! Don't cheat yourself, start on the face and avoid the corner;it is way cooler. The sequence is stellar and is well protected. Beautiful vertical face, Granite, wonderful location...it does not get much better. |
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 10, 2009
| It gets a lot better. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| Surprisingly chossy for such a classic with a number of loose holds that are on their way out... Starting in the corner seems silly when there are plenty of holds on the face. The crux features sharp crimps, polished feet and long reaches.
Anchors, upper 2 bolts and 3rd hanger replaced on 10/23/09, the rest of them are sound. Whip away! |
By Spencer Daniels
From: Sandy,utah
Jul 5, 2012
| I have been spotting this route out this season. Looks like a great route! |
By RyanArnold
Aug 18, 2012
| While on it today, I noticed the hanger was almost pulled off the second bolt. I tightened the screw back down with my fingers, but it didn't give me much confidence... especially since the crux is at and just above that bolt. |
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