All Banged Up 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Michael Hartrich 1982 |
| Submitted By: | matthew ritter on May 10, 2012 |
| |
The roof
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Description Unprotected boulder moves on pretty good kitty litter will get you to the base of the roof. From here the granite is splitter. Get yourself situated and get some gear. A 3.5 with a draw works well here. From a bomber right hand undercling hand jam reach out and place a .75 cam. You could place bigger gear but it would have to go in the jams.
Jam some tight hand jams before getting to a sinker around the lip. Place another .75 in the narrowest section below the lip. Find the foot jams and keep bumping those jams up the now hand sized crack.
Continue to the top on a licheny crack or lower off from above the lip.
Location Just left of Roofer's Madness
Protection cams. i used a 3.5 a 3 would work. a couple .75s. for the roof
a couple pieces for the upper crack
the route could use a hex anchor just above lip
| Comments on All Banged Up |
|
By matthew ritter
May 10, 2012
| AKA "Gang Bang" reportedly due to the fact that it took many attempts from many attemptees before Hartrich finished the climb. |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 10, 2012
| also looks soooooooo good |
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