Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Eastern Hills
> Sagehen Summit…
> Granite Basin
> E Face
All Along the Watchtower
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in East Face
|
|
All Along the Watchtower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
Clevenger Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Ordinary Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Schmauss, Ives, Strassman |
| Page Views: | 1,033 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Aug 26, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Sandbag! 10a in Lewis Guide felt much harder to me. Overall a very nice route. Although the climbing was cool on P2, it was kinda scary with poor rock and not much pro after the piton(Lewis guide says pitons but there is only one), I would climb P2 of the Clevenger Route instead if I did it again.
P1**-10b Start up theClevenger Route(may want a #4 C4) until you can traverse right above a bush into a nice crack. Higher where the crack thins is the crux and I was happy to have small stoppers and a few RPs here. You are not that far above a ledge when pulling the crux and the small gear allowed me to sew it up. A Bit higher is a questionable bolt that protects the final fun face moves before the angle eases. I made a belay by digging out a solid crack below a bigish ledge.
P2(3 star climbing on 0 star rock and poor pro)-10c R/X if you fall on easier but loose ground at the top half of the route
From the P1 belay I was barely able to spot the pin up and left that protects the crux of P2. I climbed a good crack left of the pin and got a good piece of gear with a long sling. From there move left over sketchy rock, a bit tricky, to a pin. I also put in a couple of pieces between the pin and the first piece in fairly poor rock. Just after the pin I was able to back it up with a red C3 but was never able to get a great look at it but it seemed ok. Continue left and up into a scoop and below a fragile looking roof. Avoid the roof on the left and pick your way to the top on crumbly unprotected rock for another 40'. I was able to find an ok easy way to the top by moving way left to a crack that led back up and right.
P3*** Move the belay right to a small alcove and climb steep fun rock around an annoying bush and into a wide crack. Follow the crack to it's end then climb easier and fun knobs, runout, to a questionable bolt(bomber pink tricam to back up the bolt. Easy to the top. I did get in one RP 15' below the bolt.
P1**-10b Start up theClevenger Route(may want a #4 C4) until you can traverse right above a bush into a nice crack. Higher where the crack thins is the crux and I was happy to have small stoppers and a few RPs here. You are not that far above a ledge when pulling the crux and the small gear allowed me to sew it up. A Bit higher is a questionable bolt that protects the final fun face moves before the angle eases. I made a belay by digging out a solid crack below a bigish ledge.
P2(3 star climbing on 0 star rock and poor pro)-10c R/X if you fall on easier but loose ground at the top half of the route
From the P1 belay I was barely able to spot the pin up and left that protects the crux of P2. I climbed a good crack left of the pin and got a good piece of gear with a long sling. From there move left over sketchy rock, a bit tricky, to a pin. I also put in a couple of pieces between the pin and the first piece in fairly poor rock. Just after the pin I was able to back it up with a red C3 but was never able to get a great look at it but it seemed ok. Continue left and up into a scoop and below a fragile looking roof. Avoid the roof on the left and pick your way to the top on crumbly unprotected rock for another 40'. I was able to find an ok easy way to the top by moving way left to a crack that led back up and right.
P3*** Move the belay right to a small alcove and climb steep fun rock around an annoying bush and into a wide crack. Follow the crack to it's end then climb easier and fun knobs, runout, to a questionable bolt(bomber pink tricam to back up the bolt. Easy to the top. I did get in one RP 15' below the bolt.
Location
The route starts up a right facing corner, the Clevenger Route, located 30 or so feet right of the obvious small pine on the East face.
2 Comments