Alive and Kicking  WI5+

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Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  WI5+ [details] FA:  Bradley White , Jim Shimberg, 1988 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Aug 24, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Scanned acted action photo of myself on Alive and ...

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Description 

Climb 20+ft of chandelier ice and move right. Climb hollow free standing very wide pillar after chimney behind it midway to place rock protection. Down climb chimney and ascend pillar. Move right via wide spread eagle legs to rock ledge then plant tools in snow crust to exit climb. WI5+ was as high as rating grade went. The exit is half dry tool with my right crampon on rock to pivot. This difficult extreme dynamic move was a make it or loose it finish.
It was easy to bang your knuckles on the chandelier section at the bottom and the new tools will make this climb less painful. Rarely in.

Location 

East side of arena. Walk Down to the west of this climb.

Protection 

I believe I used small tri-cams behind the hollow pillar. I don't remember what temporary protection was used. Didn't use piton. Ice screws are decent at the beginning and were futile on the hollow pillar above it's base. It will be a long fall if while exiting to the rock ledge you fail.

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Scanned photo. Midway.

Before the crux exit.