Alive and Kicking
||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
|Original: ||WI5+ [details]|
|FA: ||Bradley White , Jim Shimberg, 1988|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||879|
|Submitted By: ||bradley white on Aug 24, 2009|
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Scanned acted action photo of myself on Alive and ...
Climb 20+ft of chandelier ice and move right. Climb hollow free standing very wide pillar after chimney behind it midway to place rock protection. Down climb chimney and ascend pillar. Move right via wide spread eagle legs to rock ledge then plant tools in snow crust to exit climb. WI5+ was as high as rating grade went. The exit is half dry tool with my right crampon on rock to pivot. This difficult extreme dynamic move was a make it or loose it finish.
It was easy to bang your knuckles on the chandelier section at the bottom and the new tools will make this climb less painful. Rarely in.
East side of arena. Walk Down to the west of this climb.
I believe I used small tri-cams behind the hollow pillar. I don't remember what temporary protection was used. Didn't use piton. Ice screws are decent at the beginning and were futile on the hollow pillar above it's base. It will be a long fall if while exiting to the rock ledge you fail.